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Early 944 with 968 rear beam fitting probs, PHOTOS!
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ic932  



Joined: 11 Feb 2005
Posts: 1104
Location: UK

PostPosted: Mon Jan 21, 2008 9:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

in my experience, the bars always come out attached to the springplates (the spring plates usually require a tap with a mallet to seperate) which is a good thing because you only need to match the inner splines. just leave them attached but keep an eye on left and right!!!

you might be right about the ride height, but i can see from your pics that the trailing arms are not on correctly (pls dont drive it like that!). it might be too early to tell about the ride height until tested with the correct arms?

personally, i would go for a late offset setup and leave the beam in place.

i just sold an 86 944 on ebay tonight with a turbo suspension/brembo conversion. it's not rocket sceince, just takes a little knowledge of how early and late parts interchange and the various knock-on effects.

like you, i learned the "hard way", by simply going for it.
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ihatesissycars  



Joined: 14 Jan 2008
Posts: 17
Location: Uk, Hampshire

PostPosted: Mon Jan 21, 2008 7:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If I go that route though it means new arms, drive shafts, cables and shocks. I can't afford that!

I think I'll just swap the spring plates over from my old beam reusing the 968 torsion bars.

I already have 4 pot brembos to go on the back plus some adpators so they'll fit my steel arms.

Will that work?
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ihatesissycars  



Joined: 14 Jan 2008
Posts: 17
Location: Uk, Hampshire

PostPosted: Tue Jan 22, 2008 10:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

One side down on to go!

The early style spring plates wouldn't go on to the torsion barsin the same position, like if the spline in the housing is slightly rotated in comparison to the 968 spring plates?

Anyways after some experimentation I have it sat so that the top of the tyre is level with the arch which is where I want it and is about 1 + 1/2 to 2" lower than the original standard height and matches the front.

Just need to get the other side the same now!

Does anyone know where I can buy the rear toe adjustment tool in the UK?
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ihatesissycars  



Joined: 14 Jan 2008
Posts: 17
Location: Uk, Hampshire

PostPosted: Wed Jan 23, 2008 4:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorted! I need an alignment badly though!!!!

Atleast its safe and useable now.

Anyways, this has now led me onto another problem, well more of something I'd like to get sorted.

Now that the rears settled a bit the tyres are just inside the arch lip and it looks fab but the front now looks too high.

Are there any height adjustable front struts that fit these cars? It has the early veedub struts with koni inserts and lower and stiffended springs.

I'm certain lopping a coil off would be enough but thats naugty!
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ic932  



Joined: 11 Feb 2005
Posts: 1104
Location: UK

PostPosted: Wed Jan 23, 2008 4:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

naughty but nice lol

no simple answer, there's the M030 951 height adjustable front shocks (but you would need to swap out hubs/spindles/discs).

failing that, leda coilovers....£'ssss

of course you could raise the rear via the eccentric adj. to match the choppedfront springs?
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ihatesissycars  



Joined: 14 Jan 2008
Posts: 17
Location: Uk, Hampshire

PostPosted: Wed Jan 23, 2008 6:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hmmmm I don't want to move the rear up or down any more, I really am sick to death of being under there (plus I'm not done yet either dammit!)

Lopping a coil off is really tempting and would put the front in line with teh rear then. . . . .

Does no one do a coil over conversion kit for the fronts? Several people did weld on coilover conversions for the ford struts, does no one do one for the porsches struts?

what about another vee dub with the same strut?

http://www.rallydesign.co.uk/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=1358&products_id=3450

These are for 2" dia strut bodies, they come with either a d shaped hole in the top cap or a 10mm hole which if memory serves is smaller than the dia of the top of the damper rod meaning I could drill it out to suit. . . . .

I feel a cunning plan coming on!
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Mike924  



Joined: 12 Aug 2004
Posts: 2601
Location: IoW UK

PostPosted: Wed Jan 23, 2008 5:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you chop any significant amount off the spring you run a greater risk of bottoming the suspension on rough roads (ever driven on the Island? ), unless you go for a stiffer spring.

There are ways of stiffening existing springs with inserts. See http://www.whiteline.com.au/, for example.
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!tom  



Joined: 28 Aug 2006
Posts: 1934
Location: Victoria, BC Canada

PostPosted: Thu Jan 24, 2008 4:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, cutting the end of your spring off does increase its rate.

However, a shorter spring will, when deflecting the suspension any particular amount, be closer to its elastic limit, meaning a shorter spring may sag later in life if it's cut much shorter than the stock length.

Cutting springs is generally a bad idea, but it does more than just adust ride-height.
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ihatesissycars  



Joined: 14 Jan 2008
Posts: 17
Location: Uk, Hampshire

PostPosted: Thu Jan 24, 2008 8:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, I'm all geometry'd up and its bloody marvelous! A bit firmer at the rear than I was expecting but its good.

Ref the front strut idea I really think it will work. The strut bodie's are the same dia as the ford struts and there's enough area to use the whol threaded sleeve so all you do is grind off the spring cup, slide the sleeve over, weld it on and bobs yer auntie!

then all you'd need to do is drill out the hole in the top spring mount which slides over the top of the damper rod, put the top mount on and bolt that up. Provided it clamps up and the spring mount is a reasonable thickness then that should work then just pick a spring, height adjustable struts!

Watch this space!
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