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I just need to vent...
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PwrGTOGuy  



Joined: 23 Jun 2007
Posts: 194
Location: Middletown, PA

PostPosted: Fri Aug 17, 2007 12:01 pm    Post subject: I just need to vent... Reply with quote

Ahhhhhhh!

That stupid freaking p.o.s. that holds the bellhousing on!!!!! I tried the slide hammer, i'm afraid to round off the starter ring bolts...

I know people here have had the same issue.... If I could, i'd chop the whole damn thing off!!!
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Paul  



Joined: 02 Nov 2002
Posts: 9491
Location: Southeast Wisconsin

PostPosted: Fri Aug 17, 2007 12:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Are you talking about the clutch fork shaft? If so, try pounding it out from the other side. Just be careful not to damage the stop.
_________________
White 87 924S "Ghost"
Silver 98 986 3.6l 320 HP "Frank N Stein"
White 01 986 "Christine"
Polar Silver 02 996TT. "Turbo"
Owned and repaired 924s since 1977
Porsche: It's not driving, it's therapy.
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PwrGTOGuy  



Joined: 23 Jun 2007
Posts: 194
Location: Middletown, PA

PostPosted: Fri Aug 17, 2007 1:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, that's it... that shaft is like welded in... I used every muscle in my body and I couldn't budge it.... It honestly doesn't surprise me... I doubt the clutch on this car has even been changed... Nothing else was....

How would I gain access to the reverse side... I'm to emotionally exhausted to think.
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-nick  



Joined: 16 Nov 2002
Posts: 2699
Location: Cambridge, MA

PostPosted: Fri Aug 17, 2007 1:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You should be able to see the hole on the opposite end. If you're not going to re-use the clutch, then squirt some PB Blaster down the hole and all over the shaft. The pivot shaft probably has grooves worn into it from the release fork bearings (plan on replacing those btw).

Just keep at it with the slide hammer. Pull whatever bolt you're using out and thread in a new one occasionally. That's the best way with the engine in. Getting at it from the top is even worse in my opinion.

Not sure what this has to do with ring gear bolts though?
_________________
1980 931S
15psi boost, MS-II, EDIS, 951 IC, custom intake, Ford 5.0L throttle body, Forge BOV, WB o2, G31 w/LSD, 964 wheels, 968 rear sway, Bilsteins, 200# Welt. springs. A laptop, and a partridge in a pear tree.
1991 964 C4 Cabriolet
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PwrGTOGuy  



Joined: 23 Jun 2007
Posts: 194
Location: Middletown, PA

PostPosted: Fri Aug 17, 2007 1:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nope, the clutch is shot... I'll take a better look tomorrow... Thanks for the help guys... very frustrating... I just want to be able to put this onto the engine stand so I can start breaking it down easier.
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-nick  



Joined: 16 Nov 2002
Posts: 2699
Location: Cambridge, MA

PostPosted: Fri Aug 17, 2007 1:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ah, if you're pulling the motor anyway, then just unbolt the bellhousing from the torque tube. Four bolts and you're done. The engine will just slide off the tube spline. I think it's much harder to unbolt the bellhousing to pull the motor.
_________________
1980 931S
15psi boost, MS-II, EDIS, 951 IC, custom intake, Ford 5.0L throttle body, Forge BOV, WB o2, G31 w/LSD, 964 wheels, 968 rear sway, Bilsteins, 200# Welt. springs. A laptop, and a partridge in a pear tree.
1991 964 C4 Cabriolet
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PwrGTOGuy  



Joined: 23 Jun 2007
Posts: 194
Location: Middletown, PA

PostPosted: Fri Aug 17, 2007 9:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Engine is already pulled, i'm having the trouble removing the bellhousing now from the engine now that it is out... all of the bolts that hold the bellhousing to the engine are removed, but it's that one pin that is causing me so much trouble... apparently it causes everyone trouble... Mine seems to be fused.
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924guy  



Joined: 29 Dec 2003
Posts: 2088
Location: Port St. Lucie, FL

PostPosted: Fri Aug 17, 2007 11:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

okay, try this:

first, remove all fragile items from area, you may need to throw things during this process and you dont want to break anything important. Also advise all persons near to stay away lest they risk bodily harm.
put on some "mad" music, ive found drowning pool works well for motivation.

put a few of the bell housing bolts back in and snug it down, so it doesnt wobble around. set the engine down if its on the hoist so its weight is on the ground. this will allow the force youll use later to fully transmit to the pin itself.
get yourself an old starter bolt or similiar, and find a nut for the threaded end. the nut has to be slightly smaller than the clutch fork pin.
lubricate the pin generously from the top and bottom with pj blaster.
thread the nut on the long bolt you found, just enough so it catches, but not completely on. this will leave a concave type depression that will let the nut center on the top of the pin (its slightly "pointy" on the top end.) and stop the bolt from slipping off center when you pound the crap out of it with a big fkn hammer..

place bolt in top access hole, with said nut on it centered on top of clutch fork pin, and beat repeatedly with your BFH until it starts to push the pin down.. re lubricate every few minutes, both top and bottom of the pin.

took me about two hours of pounding to get mine out, most of that time it didnt move at all, but once it starts to move, itll go quick, its just a matter of breaking it loose, and i didnt have a BFH either, just a regular hammer..And once its been broken free, you will need a longer bolt, or something else to tap it the rest of the way out, but by then, it really is only tapping.

may the use of force be with you...
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Eric
78 924
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http://www.cardomain.com/id/924Guy
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RC  



Joined: 25 Mar 2007
Posts: 2637
Location: Australia

PostPosted: Fri Aug 17, 2007 11:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Try heating the metal around the pin with a HOT air gun while using the above method.

Roger
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PORSCHEV  



Joined: 02 Nov 2002
Posts: 1901
Location: Cedar Lake Nova Scotia, Canada

PostPosted: Sat Aug 18, 2007 6:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Holy shit guys... don't you have torches or air chisels? Talk about doing things the hard way

porschev shakes his head
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1976 924
5 lug conversion, 17'C2 wheels,custom body work,327 vette engine.

1978-#53 "D" track racer.
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Ozzie  



Joined: 12 Mar 2005
Posts: 4448
Location: Townsville, Qld. Australia

PostPosted: Sat Aug 18, 2007 7:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah - but wheres the fun in that?
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Paul  



Joined: 02 Nov 2002
Posts: 9491
Location: Southeast Wisconsin

PostPosted: Sat Aug 18, 2007 9:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You did remove the lock bolt, correct?
_________________
White 87 924S "Ghost"
Silver 98 986 3.6l 320 HP "Frank N Stein"
White 01 986 "Christine"
Polar Silver 02 996TT. "Turbo"
Owned and repaired 924s since 1977
Porsche: It's not driving, it's therapy.
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PwrGTOGuy  



Joined: 23 Jun 2007
Posts: 194
Location: Middletown, PA

PostPosted: Sat Aug 18, 2007 10:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Paul wrote:
You did remove the lock bolt, correct?


I did... I was able to pound it and move it about 5/8" That went really quick actually... but then, as the top of the pin went flush with the bellhousing I can't seem to budge it any further... I guess i'll let the liquid wrench set up.... you all seem to mention blaster, is that better than liquid wrench? If so, i'll go buy some tomorrow.

At least it moved...

Doesn't help that my power arm (right) i'm having shoulder problems.
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Paul  



Joined: 02 Nov 2002
Posts: 9491
Location: Southeast Wisconsin

PostPosted: Sat Aug 18, 2007 11:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lube it up again and tap it in the other direction, lube and tap it back and forth until it lets go.
_________________
White 87 924S "Ghost"
Silver 98 986 3.6l 320 HP "Frank N Stein"
White 01 986 "Christine"
Polar Silver 02 996TT. "Turbo"
Owned and repaired 924s since 1977
Porsche: It's not driving, it's therapy.
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PwrGTOGuy  



Joined: 23 Jun 2007
Posts: 194
Location: Middletown, PA

PostPosted: Sun Aug 19, 2007 10:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You guys are awesome... you gave excellent information... How about a little more

This might sound stupid but the haynes manual sucks...

How do it get it down to just the output shaft? Ie. remove the clutch, flywheel, starter gear ect.

See Pictures Below:

thanks guys.




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