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NPG-R Coolant

 
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simsport  



Joined: 06 Nov 2002
Posts: 573
Location: UK Warrington

PostPosted: Sun Aug 05, 2007 8:52 pm    Post subject: NPG-R Coolant Reply with quote

Has anyone tried this NPG Coolant?
Its supplied by Evans Cooling Systems. The claims are it wont boil to 400F and is much more efficient at getting heat away from the engine through better heat transfer. The bloke I spoke to said that this is due to its not having any 'standoff' with localised boiling and vapour pockets hence no hot spots.

In actual fact (they say) the temp may read higher as more heat is hitting the water but the engine runs cooler.

My supercharged car does put a lot of heat into the water, and although I have a 951 rad, electic pump etc any gains are worth having.

Cheers
Simon
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Min  



Joined: 04 Nov 2002
Posts: 2368
Location: Vernon, British Columbia, Canada

PostPosted: Mon Aug 06, 2007 6:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

well, I was bored, so I started doing a bit of research, found some interesting stuffs.

Quote:
Nice discussion here about coolants. I'll step right up here and say that I sell Evans coolant. That said, I've used it since 1995; it's in my car, truck, MX bike (2 stroke), street bikes, and roadracers. If it didn't work, I wouldn't give it another moment of my time.

In my personal experience I've seen some extreme situations. In 1999 we were at Roebling Road in Savanah, GA. The official temperature was 102F, they even cancelled the Marines' boot camp. Bikes were blowing up pretty regularly, and looking around the pits, I saw lots of people adding water to their radiators. We had no such problems. We didn't even bother turning our bikes off while waiting to go out in practise or for the warm up lap before a race. Others were having trouble restarting their bikes because of after boil.

In 2000 we were at Summit Point, WV. The weather was normal, but I was trying something in preparation for Daytona. I blocked up the radiator to improve aerodynamics. Have blocked it up too much, the coolant temperature went WAY up. I did a lot of laps in practise before noticing the digital temp guage reading 147C (295F). We changed the oil and had to drill out the inlet to the overflow bottle because it had melted shut. We raced all our races that weekend and then raced all our races at Daytona without touching the engine. (It's not that we are especially brave, just cheap.) After Daytona where the F4 did double duty because I was a novice and my team mate an expert we tore the engine down. One exhaust valve was a little burned. No wear on cylinders, pistons, evidence of detonation, etc.

Here are a few things about what has been said on this thread. Big Mac, you've got it right, good info. Yes, water is an awesome coolant, until it boils. Yes boiling absorbs a lot of heat, but the vapour shields the metal from liquid coolant allowing an extreme rise in local temperature initiating detonation. The issue is not engine failure due to overheating, but rather coolant failure. When the coolant fails, then the engine experiences damage. When local boiling (usually around the exhaust valves first) allows a hot spot to form, you get detonation. When the coolant temp gets too close to its boiling point, the low pressure side of the pump cavitates, reducing flow. Water expands 60 times more as a vapor than Evans Coolants.

A higher temperature differential between the air temp and the coolant temp in the radiator leads to more efficient cooling. You get more heat out of the engine with a higher coolant temp as long as it's not boiling. The temp guage and idiot light are set for the parameters of water. Water acts the same regardless of what is added to it. (I know, water wetter reduces surface tension, ethylene glycol raises boiling point, etc.) What I mean is that once water vapor is formed, its temperature needs to drop below its boiling point (not the boiling point of an 80/20 or 50/50 mix) to recondense. There is precedent that says a warrenty cannot be voided because the consumer used a different fluid than the manufacturers recomendation. See Magnuson-Moss Warrenty Act. Of course this doesn't mean you won't have to argue.

NPG-R is fine for bikes except for riders on this site. You might still be tempted to ride even if it's below 0F outside. It has a lower viscocity than NPG and NPG+.


A variety of arguements can be seen here.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=63377

Will post more information if I find it.
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Min  



Joined: 04 Nov 2002
Posts: 2368
Location: Vernon, British Columbia, Canada

PostPosted: Mon Aug 06, 2007 7:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, after doing alot more research, I'm definately going to be trying their product.

Min
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simsport  



Joined: 06 Nov 2002
Posts: 573
Location: UK Warrington

PostPosted: Mon Aug 06, 2007 8:01 am    Post subject: Evans Reply with quote

Min
Thanks for info, I am going to run it in my car after rebuild this winter.

Cheers
Simon
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