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1979 924 NA or 1980 924 Turbo shifting problems
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Vince Ponz  



Joined: 02 Nov 2002
Posts: 3581
Location: Florida

PostPosted: Fri Oct 24, 2008 7:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Being that you are new to this car I would suggest you shift slower than you have been. Slower but with force. If it still grinds then you have other problems.
remove the gater on the shifter and check for play on the 2 in finger sticking out. If it is oval that might be your problem.
Broken motor mount....maybe
Bushings depending on your car if it is a snail tail it might be the one over the tranny.
It could also be the clutch.
and my last one is your idle is too high.

For now shift into a higher gear then to the one you want. It sort of clears the gears so you can get into gear.
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77.5 924 modified track car
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Jakkq  



Joined: 29 Sep 2008
Posts: 809
Location: Norfolk, Nebraska

PostPosted: Wed Oct 29, 2008 4:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have been taking it real slow when shifting, and releasing the clutch a lot slower too. Doing this has caused no grinding or problems for me. Am I safe just doing this or is is still a concern to mess with the snail shell?
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El Chato  



Joined: 22 Aug 2006
Posts: 205
Location: El Paso, TX

PostPosted: Thu Jan 01, 2009 12:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

true, I have the same problem, just got the bushings through the mail, but waiting on the day to bring everything down and finish quick, but I am still reading and rereading the how to, so I don't get stuck and left with no car in the week. I found that sliding some rubber square o rings where the bushing should be eased a little the shifting and allowed me to reach first and reverse more, and better in the other gears while waiting to bring the trany down. as for grinding when going into second sometimes it grinds but I feel that maybe its because I'm near reverse, I just push a little more to the right and goes in smooth. I will take pictures of the setup, think it will make others see it more easier. or if someone already has them I appreciate it a lot
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El Chato  



Joined: 22 Aug 2006
Posts: 205
Location: El Paso, TX

PostPosted: Sat Jan 03, 2009 10:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Big question, after reading the haynes for a while it tells me I have to bring the transsmition down then the drive shaft, is this correct, I though I had to bring them down as a whole, but the torsion tube is in the way, Im getting ready to do this tomorrow morning
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
Posts: 15548
Location: Spring Lake MI

PostPosted: Sat Jun 06, 2009 4:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

For convenience, here are the part numbers required to rebuild the linkage:

Shift lever bushings (qty 4) : 999.924.002.40 ($3 each at Pelican)
Shift rod universal joint bushigns (qty 2) : 911.424.223.03 ($3.50 each at Pelican)
Guide tube bushing + bracket (qty 1) : 477 711 237 ($117 at Pelican )

I was lucky and found a couple of that last item on eBay, NOS for a few dollars a couple years ago.

Still trying to figure out what the part number is for the bushing that goes into the cup at the end of the guide tube, the part that attaches to the ball welded onto the torque tube.
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Rasta Monsta  



Joined: 12 Jul 2006
Posts: 11723
Location: PacNW

PostPosted: Sun Jun 07, 2009 2:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think you have to buy the whole cup.
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
Posts: 15548
Location: Spring Lake MI

PostPosted: Tue Jun 09, 2009 5:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rasta Monsta wrote:
I think you have to buy the whole cup.

Roger that. Add to the above list part number 477.711.176.A for the cup assembly. $44.25 from yours truly.
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Last edited by ideola on Wed Mar 10, 2010 9:03 am; edited 2 times in total
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smither  



Joined: 03 May 2009
Posts: 26
Location: Pontyclun, Wales, UK

PostPosted: Fri Jun 19, 2009 8:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Moderator please delete if this has been done.
I found this bushes on ebay last week.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/SuperPro-gear-linkage-UJ-bush-kit-Porsche-911_W0QQitemZ270408660163QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item3ef59cb4c3&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=65%3A12%7C66%3A2%7C39%3A1%7C72%3A1683%7C240%3A1318%7C301%3A1%7C293%3A1%7C294%3A50

I don't think the guy selling them knows the fit the 924 dogleg coupler, so i sent him an email to let him know.

I have just fitted a set to my linkage and they seem a very snug fit with less of a gap than some of the pictures i have seen on the forum. Everything is in bits at the moment so i don't know what they are like in action. I would would think they are more durable than the plastic oem ones. They also come with 60,000 mile or 3 year warranty.
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JackRabbit  



Joined: 11 Aug 2008
Posts: 147
Location: Clarion, Pennsylvania

PostPosted: Fri Jul 03, 2009 9:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey I'm putting together an order for the parts needed to repair my sloppy shifter and I'm trying to figure out whether or not I need the Shift Rod Bracket. It's part # OEM-477711237A. This thing just started to go and doesn't have more than a few hundred miles on it since it went as the odometer is just passed 60k a few months back.
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Lost in Florida  



Joined: 04 Feb 2010
Posts: 3
Location: Florida

PostPosted: Mon Mar 08, 2010 10:47 am    Post subject: Z016 Stuck in Nuetral Reply with quote

Hey. I've had my car for a couple of months now. It shifts (shifted) fine in all gears. Bushings and all that are good. But just this past Friday I'm coming home and went to shift from 2-3 and....nothing! It's stuck in nuetral and wont shift into any gear. I disconected the linkage from the selector rod and it will nor turn left or right or go in or out. Anyone have a solution for this? This is actually my daily driver car, so I'm kinda up a creek at the moment
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Paul  



Joined: 02 Nov 2002
Posts: 9491
Location: Southeast Wisconsin

PostPosted: Mon Mar 08, 2010 11:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Welcome to the board, what year and model is your car?
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Lost in Florida  



Joined: 04 Feb 2010
Posts: 3
Location: Florida

PostPosted: Wed Mar 10, 2010 8:47 am    Post subject: Stuck in Nuetral Reply with quote

1980 931. But, it had to have been an end of year model from my understanding, because it has an '81 wiring harness from the factory. Which, supposedly, is the 1st year they started with the factory alarms. Not 100% sure about that though
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Rasta Monsta  



Joined: 12 Jul 2006
Posts: 11723
Location: PacNW

PostPosted: Wed Mar 10, 2010 8:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ideola wrote:
Shift rod universal joint bushigns (qty 2) : 911.424.223.03 ($3.50 each at Pelican).


Wanted to recommend Weltmeister poly pieces for this application.

$20-ish at Automotion. . .just installed them, and have high hopes for 'lasticity.

*EDIT* Oh, and please ignore the part in the ad where it says "just takes a couple minutes to install." Um, NOT ON NO STINKIN TOOFAH.
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Last edited by Rasta Monsta on Wed Mar 10, 2010 9:09 am; edited 1 time in total
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Rasta Monsta  



Joined: 12 Jul 2006
Posts: 11723
Location: PacNW

PostPosted: Wed Mar 10, 2010 8:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ideola wrote:
477.711.176.A for the cup assembly. . .$30 from DC Automotive as of this posting.


I know that Dan's reference here is simply a report and not an endorsement, but FWIW, I would be EXTREMELY WARY about purchasing something of this nature from DCA.
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
Posts: 15548
Location: Spring Lake MI

PostPosted: Wed Mar 10, 2010 9:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rasta Monsta wrote:
ideola wrote:
477.711.176.A for the cup assembly. . .$30 from DC Automotive as of this posting.


I know that Dan's reference here is simply a report and not an endorsement, but FWIW, I would be EXTREMELY WARY about purchasing something of this nature from DCA.


Agreed, it's probably used and I may not have realized it at the time I posted. I'll edit the above. I can get them for $44.25.
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