924Board.org

[cegan09]

Ok, so i'm to the point where i can pull my engine out of my 87 924S. However there are two things blocking me. I can't seem to get the steering arm out of the drivers side wheel, and the universal joint won't come off the pin or whatever it is that it attaches to just by the cross member. The steering arm practically fell out of the passenger side wheel, but i can't for the life of me get it out of the drivers side. The cotter pin and nut are off.

As for the universal join, i've pulled the bolt that clamps it down, and tried to wedge the slit open a bit. It still won't pull off though.

My question si does anyone have any tricks or suggestions to getting these out? Once this is done i have the cross member off and i can pull the engine off the torque tube and out of the car.
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1987 Porsche 924s (summer project)

2002 Toyota Camry (practical daily driver)

[D Hook]

Sometimes some penetrating oil over night and a few judicious taps with a hammer will loosen things up. Be careful of the threads.
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'80 924 n/a SOLD

[cegan09]

so no other suggestions besides some penetrating fluid and a hammer? (both of which i've tried)
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1987 Porsche 924s (summer project)

2002 Toyota Camry (practical daily driver)

[Mike924]

penetrating fluid, a hammer and persistence...?
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1985 Porsche 924 'Lux', Kalahari Beige (my ex)
1993 Porsche 968 Coupe, Midnight Blue, 6 spd

'There is no substitute for a little grease under your fingernails.' - Chrenan, 924board.org

[Smoothie]

[-nick]

I've used a heavy hammer and whacked the crap out of them from the thread side. But I also was replacing when I did it. A ball joint fork might work well enough to be able to reuse them. If they're original though, why not just replace? They're pretty cheap. I'd be suspect of the one that just fell out anyway.
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1980 931S
15psi boost, MS-II, EDIS, 951 IC, custom intake, Ford 5.0L throttle body, Forge BOV, WB o2, G31 w/LSD, 964 wheels, 968 rear sway, Bilsteins, 200# Welt. springs. A laptop, and a partridge in a pear tree.
1991 964 C4 Cabriolet

[Raceboy]

If you plan on reusing the steering knuckle ball joint, then don't touch the ball joint nor down neither thread side. Instead hammer the mounting arm from the side and it will come off.
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'83 924 2.6 16v Turbo, 470hp
'67 911 2.4S hotrod
'90 944 S2 Cabriolet
'78 924 Carrera GT replica
'84 928 S, sold
'91 944 S2, sold
'82 924S/931 "Gulf", sold
'84 924, turbocharged, sold.
http://www.facebook.com/vemsporsche

[Rasta Monsta]

I used a gear puller on my stubborn side.
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Toofah King Bad

• WeiBe (1987 924S 2.5t) - 931 S3

[endwrench]

[cegan09]

i have tried every combination of hammering, prying, soaking there is. Only thing i haven't tried is a gear puller. I'll attempt that then i get home.

Any suggestions for the universal joint that sits just above the cross member. I need to get it off the rack and pinion assembly so i can drop all that steering stuff.
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1987 Porsche 924s (summer project)

2002 Toyota Camry (practical daily driver)

[924guy]

for the steering knuckle, i used an old screwdriver and pounded it into the slot to open it up it a bit, while pulling down on the rack (after unbolting.) took a bit, but came off with some effort. dont damage the splines or split the clamp...
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Eric
78 924
82 931 SE "smokey"
99' VehiCross
Y2K Honda Insight
http://www.cardomain.com/id/924Guy
Performance by Pasha

[Paul]

On the steering U joint, one must remove the bolt completely, then loosen the rack from the cross member, and the U joint will usually pull right off of the steering shaft as the rack is lowered.

On the tie rod end, get two ball pein hammers and bang the sides of the steering arm, the tie rod end will pop out. If not, heat it then hammer again.
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White 87 924S "Ghost"
Silver 98 986 3.6l 320 HP "Frank N Stein"
White 01 986 "Christine"
Polar Silver 02 996TT. "Turbo"
Owned and repaired 924s since 1977
Porsche: It's not driving, it's therapy.

[RC]

As Paul said with the U joint. The bolt sits in a groove and must be removed first. A large flat screwdriver used to open the clamped section slightly helps.

I have used a hot air gun to heat the steering arm from the nut side with a damp rag around the joint rubber. This expands the tapered hole just enough to loosen the tight fit. Use a plain nut if you have one on the stub and hit it hard square on the end. I use a copper mallet here as I have one. Suggest a heavy dolly (steel block) on the arm to prevent any further damage if it needs much bashing. But it DOES eventually separate!

Roger

[cegan09]

Thank you for the suggestions. I still haven't gotten them off, but i have a few more ideas. Hopefully its off tonight.
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1987 Porsche 924s (summer project)

2002 Toyota Camry (practical daily driver)

[D Hook]