924Board.org

[Tigger937]

Several years ago, I installed a front mount 951 IC. Recently, Rasta has asked me to provide a brief rundown of the procedure. Well, here it is as best as I recall. I apologize for the crappie photos, but it was the best I could do with a cheapo $20 digital camera at the time.

1.) Before you do anything, go look at a 951 & 931 sitting side-by-side. It will become much more apparent what you have to do.

OK, here are the 10 pics I have:
http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa290/tigger937/924%20Board/intercooler001.jpg
http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa290/tigger937/924%20Board/intercooler002.jpg
http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa290/tigger937/924%20Board/intercooler003.jpg
http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa290/tigger937/924%20Board/intercooler004.jpg
http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa290/tigger937/924%20Board/intercooler005.jpg
http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa290/tigger937/924%20Board/intercooler006.jpg
http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa290/tigger937/924%20Board/intercooler007.jpg
http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa290/tigger937/924%20Board/intercooler008.jpg
http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa290/tigger937/924%20Board/intercooler009.jpg
http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa290/tigger937/924%20Board/intercooler010.jpg

2.) (Optional) Find a bone yard with a 951 front clip. You don't need the whole thing, just the bowed crossmember (pic #5) with the hood catch (it's black in my photos, the 924 one is flat with smaller vent holes as shown in pic #10). It's got the bigger holes for the IC pipes. You could probably make do with the 924 crossmember, but you would need to make larger hole cutouts for the IC pipes.

3.) Remove the front bumper. There are 2 large bolts that can be accessed through holes from the underside.

4.) There are approximately 100 spot welds total in this project (don't worry, it goes pretty fast). Begin by drilling out the spot welds for the header panel. As I recall, there are approx. 20 spot welds holding it on, 12 along the top (by the hood catch) and 8 on the underside by the bumper. I think I used a 1/4" bit. Just take several sized bits and place the butt end over a few of the welds to size up. It's OK if you don't get all of the spot weld when drilling, you just take a screw driver and pry it apart at that point. You don't really need any special kind of drill bit for this, just a sharpened one from the local hardware store. It will be better if it's a higher quality one so you don't have to sharpen as often. Just make sure the bit stays sharpened...........I think I had to sharpen mine at least twice during the process.

5.) Remove the header panel. You will notice the vent subpanel lying beneath with fins to direct air flow (pic #10).

6.) Drill out the spot welds for the vent subpanel/hood catch assembly assuming you are going with the 951 crossmember identified in step 2.) above. See photo #10. Mount the 951 crossmember using machine screws (preferably stainless or something non-corrosive) in the holes vacated by the drilled out spot welds (pics #2,4,5). Otherwise, you'll just want to cut away the vent subpanel leaving the hood catch in place if you chose to go with the 924 crossmember. A sawzall works best for this. The IC will rest in the area vacated by the vent subpanel (pics #5,1).

7.) Temporarily place the IC as shown in photo #1. The other crossmember that the front of the IC is resting on in photo #1 needs to have the top half cut away (pic is before shot), including the vent holes, so the IC can angle downward at a slope equal to the header panel. Don't worry, that crossmember is not used for front end rigidity/support. I just used a sawzall to notch it out as it is much easier. Painful, I know, but it goes quick. Just think of it as setting a broken leg, soon it will be good as new!

8.) Get some bar stock from your local hardware store and fabricate 4 "L" brackets to mount the IC using the existing mounting holes on the IC. Line up/drill holes as necessary and mount.

9.) Mount the header panel with machine screws (stainless) in the holes vacated by the drilled out spot welds. You can paint or put caps on the screw heads later for better concealment.

10.) Re-mount the front bumper and your finished!

11.) Now your ready to fabricate the pipes. This is going to be the most difficult part as clearances are tight, but definitely workable. The fuel dizzy can be dropped some to provide additional clearance over the top for the pipe. There are various header places where you can buy an assortment of bends. I chose 2.25" to maintain optimal size/flow characteristics and this seems to work well. You will need someone who can weld or braze after you slowly line up/fit all the pieces by trial and error. The process I used went like this: line up, fit, tack weld, final fit, full weld. This is very time consuming and shouldn't be rushed. I recall spending the better part of 40 hours doing this (it was my first attempt at brazing, went quite well actually).

You will also need various silicon adapters and couplers available from one of the turbo manufacturers like Turbonetics to make your connections with the IC, turbo and TB.

Well, that's what I remember from 3 years ago. I may have missed a few minor steps, but the important stuff should be here. Good luck and let me know if you have any questions, I will try to answer.
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1981 931 (Concours)
1982 931 (Daily Driver)

"Think outside the box"

[flosho]

Very nice write up!
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[This Space For Rent]

[Rasta Monsta]

Tip, use a spot weld cutter to remove the welds holding the header panel on. Goes very fast, clean, and easy.


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Toofah King Bad

• WeiBe (1987 924S 2.5t) - 931 S3