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Installing Lowering Springs - Updated..PICTURES before/after
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flosho  



Joined: 01 Jul 2004
Posts: 3160
Location: Eau Claire, Wisconsin

PostPosted: Mon Apr 17, 2006 1:32 pm    Post subject: Installing Lowering Springs - Updated..PICTURES before/after Reply with quote

This week I'm gonna put my weltmiester springs in. Is it pretty straight forward on the install? I have a Haynes manual on order(finally!!!) and I'm guessing there is a procedure in there for removing the springs and shocks because I searched and could not find anything?

So what does this all involve, I know I'm going to need the spring compressor and I can rent one from the local parts store..


I'll post some before and after pics.

I'll let you guess which side is before and which is after..


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Last edited by flosho on Sun May 14, 2006 3:05 am; edited 1 time in total
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Lizard  



Joined: 03 Nov 2002
Posts: 9364
Location: Abbotsford BC. Canada

PostPosted: Mon Apr 17, 2006 1:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

a spring compressor is a must imo, however an impact gun makes quick work of it too, have fun.
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Chrenan  



Joined: 15 Jan 2003
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Location: Canada

PostPosted: Mon Apr 17, 2006 2:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I agree, spring compressors and impact gun are a must, they really helped me when I did front end work last summer.
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morghen  



Joined: 21 Jan 2005
Posts: 9095
Location: Romania

PostPosted: Mon Apr 17, 2006 6:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

make before and after pics

you need a spring compressor to do the job.
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Vince Ponz  



Joined: 02 Nov 2002
Posts: 3581
Location: Florida

PostPosted: Tue Apr 18, 2006 12:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If the springs drop the front the car will not be level. You should lower the rear. Put a level in the open door jamb to measure if it is level. Both of my cars were lowered and so was the rear.

I would not lower the front without doing the back.
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-nick  



Joined: 16 Nov 2002
Posts: 2699
Location: Cambridge, MA

PostPosted: Tue Apr 18, 2006 1:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

My humble opinion - it is much easier to use the weight of the car and a jack to change the front springs than using a spring compressor. Cheap spring compressors cock the springs in scary directions, using the weight of the car, the spring isn't going to go anywhere. Just take a little caution when you poke the strut through the strut bearing hole when you lower the car down on the new spring.

Speaking of - you should replace the strut mount bearings while you've got things apart.

With an impact wrench and a jack, it's a 5min per side job.

nick
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endwrench  



Joined: 07 Dec 2002
Posts: 1631
Location: Victor, Montana

PostPosted: Tue Apr 18, 2006 1:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Vince Ponz wrote:
If the springs drop the front the car will not be level. You should lower the rear. Put a level in the open door jamb to measure if it is level. Both of my cars were lowered and so was the rear.

I would not lower the front without doing the back.


How 'bout a quick synopsis on lowering the rear.

I "euro'd" my bumbers tonight and now it is just screaming to lowered for some reason.

Todd
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Lizard  



Joined: 03 Nov 2002
Posts: 9364
Location: Abbotsford BC. Canada

PostPosted: Tue Apr 18, 2006 2:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would not recommend using the eccentric bolt/nut in the back to lower the back as it adjusts the Camber, I would actually recommend reindexing the torsion bars.
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moone924  



Joined: 05 Feb 2003
Posts: 868
Location: Douglas Wyoming

PostPosted: Tue Apr 18, 2006 2:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Anyone used adjustable spring plates ?
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Smoothie  



Joined: 01 Jan 2003
Posts: 8032
Location: DE (the one near MD, PA, NJ)

PostPosted: Tue Apr 18, 2006 10:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

No, lowering the rear by re-indexing or by the eccentric bolt both have the same affect on both camber and toe. You need a re-alignment either way. As long as there's enough adjustment available in it, use the eccentric bolt.

Here're the rear alignment adjustment bolts for the later suspension - http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/smoothies931pics/detail?.dir=a7d5&.dnm=e941.jpg&.src=ph
By the way, the Haynes has a misprint on this. On pg.223, where it says "Fig. 10.5 Early-style", change that to "Fig. 10.6 Late-style". -And change the diagram label on pg.224 to "Fig. 10.5 Early-style".

homemade rear toe adjustment tool - http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/smoothies931pics/detail?.dir=a7d5&.dnm=a92a.jpg&.src=ph
A more mass-produced version can be purchased for something in the $25-$30 range from Automotion or whoever - or with a lot of luck, your alignment shop will already have one. -There's also the possibility of going without and prying with a large screwdriver where shown in the first pic, but the job is much better done with the correct tool.
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endwrench  



Joined: 07 Dec 2002
Posts: 1631
Location: Victor, Montana

PostPosted: Wed Apr 19, 2006 3:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great info and pics Smothie! Thanks.

Can't wait to see the before and after pics.

Todd
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moone924  



Joined: 05 Feb 2003
Posts: 868
Location: Douglas Wyoming

PostPosted: Wed Apr 19, 2006 3:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

-nick wrote:
My humble opinion - it is much easier to use the weight of the car and a jack to change the front springs than using a spring compressor. Cheap spring compressors cock the springs in scary directions, using the weight of the car, the spring isn't going to go anywhere. Just take a little caution when you poke the strut through the strut bearing hole when you lower the car down on the new spring.


I agree with nick, but if you end up using a compressor make sure you face everything away from your face, just in case something happens.
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Smoothie  



Joined: 01 Jan 2003
Posts: 8032
Location: DE (the one near MD, PA, NJ)

PostPosted: Wed Apr 19, 2006 5:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm with the non-spring-compressor "camp" too. I actually have a spring compressor and used it for my first spring removal, but during the process, I noticed it would be way easier and less clumbsy going without it, so I did the other side without. Using the spring compressor actually made me more nervous.
The new, lowered springs you'll probably find are short enough that it makes no sense at all to bother with the compressor for their installation because with the whole strut and spring assembly assembled, the spring isn't even long enough to reach both ends with the strut fully extended - the spring is actually loose in there until it's back on the car with the cars' weight on it.
To get the OE, longer springs out, I jack up a corner, removed that wheel, put some blocks of wood under the A-arm in the ball joint area, let the car down again, remove the struts' single top-center nut from the engine compartment, then jack the car back up slowly to release the tension on the spring. Once it's fully released, it can be tilted out through the fender opening, remove that spring, put the new one on, etc.

the el'cheapo Harbor Freight deep offset wrenches fit the top strut nut perfect - http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/smoothies931pics/detail?.dir=341f&.dnm=1fdb.jpg&.src=ph
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Last edited by Smoothie on Wed Apr 19, 2006 5:19 am; edited 1 time in total
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Keaton  



Joined: 02 Jan 2006
Posts: 261
Location: 85202

PostPosted: Wed Apr 19, 2006 5:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

a few years ago some one kill them selfs by taking the nut off the top of the spring with out compressing it. the nut and spring poped off and hit him in the face, he died of head trama. he was found 8~9 hours after. he would of lived if someone had taken him to the hospital, but he was home alone. it was in the paper i'll try to find.
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Smoothie  



Joined: 01 Jan 2003
Posts: 8032
Location: DE (the one near MD, PA, NJ)

PostPosted: Wed Apr 19, 2006 5:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Keaton - That guy must have had the whole strut assembly off the car, then removed the bolt without the compressor. Yes, that's a very bad idea. The way I and some others here do it, uses the cars' weight and a jack in a controlled manner to disassemble the strut assembly while it's still on the car. If you want to remove the strut assembly and work on it off the car, you have no choice but to use a spring compressor. The process is very simple, but if you don't comprehend it and how and why it works, don't even think of trying it.
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