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way to kill&fix an old starter + solenoid life extension

 
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Smoothie  



Joined: 01 Jan 2003
Posts: 8032
Location: DE (the one near MD, PA, NJ)

PostPosted: Tue Oct 11, 2005 4:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Messing with an old solenoid here the other day, I tested it and found it still works, so cleaned it up, sealed its' seams and cracks with epoxy and lubed it. The main thing I want to mention concerns the inaccessible innerds of the solenoid that can/will get corroded over time as can be seen in this pic -
<click>

That solenoid went from new to what you see there in remarkably short time - like 1.5 years. -But having it to dissect, showed what's inside and what can be done to rejuvenate an old corroded one, or apply some preventative maint to a new one. The "T" shaped part with spring you see at the bottom-center of the pic is the movable switch part that when pushed in by the piston, moves against and closes the contacts (that appear as rusted round metal pieces in the plastic part to the left) to power the motor. When assembled, all you can see of that "T" piece is its' copper end in the center of the cylinder as shown here -
<click>

The maint, (in addition to de-gunking and oiling the piston) would be to simply dribble some Liquid Wrench or whatever on and around the copper button, press it in to let the fluid flow into the sealed switch area, shake it around, then in the case of an old corroded solenoid - pound the button in repeatedly with the handle end of a small-enough screwdriver (or whatever you can comfortably fit in your hand and fit into the cylinder to do the job). -This will smack the "T" piece against the round contacts to dislodge any rust that's on them. Then dribble a liberal amount of Liquid Wrench in there again and shake to rinse. For a new solenoid, just dribble in something like silicone elect contact cleaner/lube and shake it around.
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Last edited by Smoothie on Tue Dec 11, 2012 9:41 am; edited 2 times in total
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augidog  



Joined: 03 Mar 2003
Posts: 1360
Location: New Jersey

PostPosted: Tue Oct 11, 2005 8:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Smoothie, what is with the brown jumper wire on the solenoid? Is it for easier access when mounted?
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D Hook  



Joined: 02 Nov 2002
Posts: 3156
Location: Omaha, NE

PostPosted: Tue Oct 11, 2005 8:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tom: We should try this with your old one and see if we can get it to come back to life.

Good pics, good info. Thanks!
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Smoothie  



Joined: 01 Jan 2003
Posts: 8032
Location: DE (the one near MD, PA, NJ)

PostPosted: Tue Oct 11, 2005 9:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

augidog wrote:
Smoothie, what is with the brown jumper wire on the solenoid? Is it for easier access when mounted?

It is easier to deal with, but it's there because that solenoid's actually for my Jeep Cherokee which happens to also use a Bosch starter. The only difference in the solenoid was that the small #50 wire connection from the ignition switch - the Jeep version has a 1/4" spade connector, while the Porsche version uses a small stud and nut. I put that short brown wire together with 1/4" female spade connectors on both ends, plugged one into the solenoid and the other one I enlarged enough to slip the round lug end connector of the existing wire into it. I happened to have that new one for the Jeep and one day needed a solenoid for the Porsche, so it got used there instead. -Not very cost effective though - the Jeep version runs in the $60-$80 range, while the 924 solenoid can be had for about $35. So, if you need one for your Jeep and it happens to use a Bosch starter, buy the 924 solenoid instead.
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'82 924T, US version, dark green metallic, 5 speed Audi 016G gearbox
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Tigger937  



Joined: 11 Apr 2004
Posts: 915

PostPosted: Tue Oct 11, 2005 11:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Anybody know of a good way to re-plate the contacts in the solenoid after cleaning in order to extend the life? Without plating, won't the contacts just wear out again in a short time?
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Tigger937  



Joined: 11 Apr 2004
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 11, 2005 2:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Or maybe there's a way to replace the contacts with something that's already plated?
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Smoothie  



Joined: 01 Jan 2003
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Location: DE (the one near MD, PA, NJ)

PostPosted: Tue Oct 11, 2005 4:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The problem would be getting at the contacts, or getting the assembly back together again afterward because it has to be cut open. The thickness of the metal outer casing and the way it's roll crimped around the plastic end makes it impossible, as far as I can tell, to reassemble it securely. That's why I suggest to dribble some cleaner in around the copper button. That seems to be about all you can do to have any effect on the internals without rendering it useless.
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'82 924T, US version, dark green metallic, 5 speed Audi 016G gearbox
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Mike924  



Joined: 12 Aug 2004
Posts: 2601
Location: IoW UK

PostPosted: Tue Oct 11, 2005 5:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Smoothie, I've thought of a new project for you.

You need to re-write the Haynes manual!

With the material and experience you have at your disposal, it's bound to be heaps bettter than the original!

Seriously, nice work, dude!
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Tigger937  



Joined: 11 Apr 2004
Posts: 915

PostPosted: Wed Oct 12, 2005 1:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, I'll second that. ATTA BOY!!!
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Smoothie  



Joined: 01 Jan 2003
Posts: 8032
Location: DE (the one near MD, PA, NJ)

PostPosted: Wed Oct 12, 2005 8:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well thanks for the kind words, but no-thanks on the Haynes rewrite.
I did start a thread on Haynes misprints awhile back though, so some of those can be corrected at least.

-For anyone that might be concerned about turning their solenoid into a little combustion chamber by introducing a flammable de-ruster/lubricant into the switch area.. (Makes sense since you'd have air, fuel and spark in there.) I played with mine some more today - dribbled in another 50 or so drops of Marvel Mystery Oil this time to give it a nice wintergreen scent, hooked it up and applied the 12V juice to exercise it... Got no signs of it wanting to blow up. -Obviously for the same reasons a flooded engine cylinder and wet plugs don't combust very well.
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"..it's made in Germany. You know the Germans always make good stuff."


'82 924T, US version, dark green metallic, 5 speed Audi 016G gearbox
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Tigger937  



Joined: 11 Apr 2004
Posts: 915

PostPosted: Wed Oct 12, 2005 1:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Smoothie wrote:
-For anyone that might be concerned about turning their solenoid into a little combustion chamber by introducing a flammable de-ruster/lubricant into the switch area.. (Makes sense since you'd have air, fuel and spark in there.) I played with mine some more today - dribbled in another 50 or so drops of Marvel Mystery Oil this time to give it a nice wintergreen scent, hooked it up and applied the 12V juice to exercise it... Got no signs of it wanting to blow up. -Obviously for the same reasons a flooded engine cylinder and wet plugs don't combust very well.


Just don't use gasoline..................KABOOM!!!
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Joes924Racer  



Joined: 03 Nov 2002
Posts: 11964
Location: Oregon, Denver Colorado native!

PostPosted: Mon Oct 17, 2005 4:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

starters go in at least 2 ways ...

1. broken lug ( from overtightening).
2. heat they will finally cut out and not
get the torque to start the motor when warm.

Im on my second starter.

I had both happen. #2 happend and I went back to #1
and drilled off the regular screwdriver headed bolts then did
the same to #2.

Using #1 motor I put #2 solinoid switch onto it.
usen metric bolts I picked up from Nappa everthings
Turns over real easy now.
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