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One high beam not working

 
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jebe  



Joined: 16 Dec 2002
Posts: 39

PostPosted: Fri Dec 03, 2004 2:18 am    Post subject: One high beam not working Reply with quote

Now I discover the next thing; only the left high beam is not working (low beam both work). Threw in a new bulb, contacts of the block looked ok (on sight, and contact sprayed) as did the cluster of grounds at the light (on sight, and contact sprayed), placed new fuses (nr 3 & 4). Fumbled wires at the light with high beam switched on. No effect.

If you suggest to 'trace the wiring' I know it'll mean horror to a non-electrical guy like me, as it is so impossible without tearing up good wiring covers, take away engineparts I never moved, not to speak of the impossible spaghetti under the dash, I'll get lost in (but also on sight everything looks fine, like new, no rust, corrosion etc. at all)

So anybody has clues I can check, or are there specific places to check (besides the once mentioned above)? Would be great!!

TNX
Jeroen
924S/1988
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Darin81T  



Joined: 03 Sep 2003
Posts: 124
Location: Vader, WA

PostPosted: Fri Dec 03, 2004 4:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It might be the connectors that plug into the back of the fuse box. I don't have a diagram handy, but if memory serves correctly, the head lights are on the white connector and on the ivory connector(1st & 3rd I think), I can't remember which pins though. Unplug those connectors and clean them up and see what happens.

Later,
Darin Flynn
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CMXXXI  



Joined: 05 Nov 2002
Posts: 1939
Location: Vicksburg, MS

PostPosted: Fri Dec 03, 2004 5:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just installed some new Hella H4 conversion lights and had a similar problem. My left low beam didn't work. Swapping the bulbs around proved the bulb to be good, and a multimeter showed that the light was getting 12 volts like it should. Turned out to be that the fuse wasn't passing enough current. I removed the fuse, lightly sanded it's contacts and it's seats, reinstalled the fuse and "spun it" a couple times and everything worked. Even though with a visual inspection it looked good, there was just enough corrosion/oxidation to keep if from working.
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Eturbo924  



Joined: 09 Nov 2002
Posts: 2212
Location: Londonderry NH

PostPosted: Fri Dec 03, 2004 7:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That is what I was going to suggest. Always remove the fuse and inspect it. Corrosion can cause to much resistance and also.... some times the plastic actually melts and the fuse does not blow... but the end no longer makes proper electrical contact. So replacement is nessesary.

Always remove the fuses.
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jebe  



Joined: 16 Dec 2002
Posts: 39

PostPosted: Fri Dec 03, 2004 8:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

already changed fuses, connectors ok, what else could it be?
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Paul  



Joined: 02 Nov 2002
Posts: 9491
Location: Southeast Wisconsin

PostPosted: Fri Dec 03, 2004 8:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you have access to a volt ohm meter, check for 12V at the headlight connector.

If you do not have 12V, shutoff the lights and do a continuity check from the fuse to the headlight connector. To do this, unplug the light and remove the fuse. Then check for zero ohms from the fuse holder to the headlight connector.
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