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manual boost ........dump valve
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cleethorpes  



Joined: 26 Jan 2004
Posts: 186
Location: cleethorpes (oddly enough!)

PostPosted: Tue Nov 23, 2004 6:28 am    Post subject: manual boost ........dump valve Reply with quote

I have a front mount 944 intercooler in my 931.

What would be the cheapest and most effective method of increasing boost...ie which manufacturer etc.

Thanks for any help.....
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'24 turbo with dodgy gt bodykit......needs a new home
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Smoothie  



Joined: 01 Jan 2003
Posts: 8030
Location: DE (the one near MD, PA, NJ)

PostPosted: Tue Nov 23, 2004 10:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The cheapest also happens to be the easiest in this case.
You can use a valve like this in the wastegate control line - http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/smoothies931pics/detail?.dir=/bdb3&.dnm=e2c2.jpg&.src=ph
That black knobbed valve was made by Bridge and sold in Amflo packaging as you could see. I've used one like that and one made by Parker with the yellow knob shown here - http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/smoothies931pics/detail?.dir=bdb3&.dnm=cb00.jpg&.src=ph
That pic shows it hooked up. It's slightly preferable to at least mount it to the firewall or something because it's subject to a lot of vibration sitting there on top of the valve cover. It works by controlling (lessening) the air pressure presented to the wastegate via the wg control line - so the wastegate opens less and later, allowing boost to build higher.
Both the Parker and the Bridge valves that I've used can be "dead ended", meaning they just attach in-line between the presssure source and destination with no need for a third opening to atmosphere to bleed off excess pressure. They can be found in places that sell air compressors and pneumatic tools. Approx. $20-$25 USD here.
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Last edited by Smoothie on Thu Apr 07, 2005 1:26 am; edited 1 time in total
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macBdog  



Joined: 16 Aug 2004
Posts: 1111
Location: Brisbane, Australia

PostPosted: Tue Nov 23, 2004 10:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ah-HAH! Another mystery solved thanks to Smoothie. The PO of my 931 installed one of these up on the firewall next to the window washer pump, works well. It had a sticky label "DO NOT ADJUST", but now I know what it is I might play with it
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numbbers  



Joined: 05 Nov 2002
Posts: 1910
Location: Highlands Ranch, Colorado

PostPosted: Tue Nov 23, 2004 11:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not the cheapest. Go to home depot, and buy the brass in line regulator for five bucks. I will screw right into the pressure duct, and the hose screws to the other end. Fully adjustable.
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cleethorpes  



Joined: 26 Jan 2004
Posts: 186
Location: cleethorpes (oddly enough!)

PostPosted: Thu Nov 25, 2004 7:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

have seen similar manual valves in nice anodized colours........ would definately want a boost guage so would a forge motorsport in the uk type do the trick....methinks it would

http://www.forgemotorsport.co.uk/products.asp?cat=TUNMISC&product=FMICB051
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Jazzerpet  



Joined: 07 Apr 2003
Posts: 186
Location: Omaha, NE.

PostPosted: Thu Nov 25, 2004 10:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Numbers, Do you have a picture of this animal? Thanks Jim
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numbbers  



Joined: 05 Nov 2002
Posts: 1910
Location: Highlands Ranch, Colorado

PostPosted: Thu Nov 25, 2004 11:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yep, check your email.
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TajMan  



Joined: 07 Oct 2004
Posts: 151
Location: Salt Lake City, Utah

PostPosted: Tue Dec 07, 2004 3:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What kind of hose adapters do I need to make this manual boost controller work?: I got that from www.importpoweronline.com I know the guy, he makes/sells stuff for the 3000GT/Stealth platform. If I stick this in that same location on a 931 is it alright to reduce the size down and have a restriction in the middle the size of this (1/4" Barbed Brass Vac Line Fittings)? Also what's the easiest place to tap a boost gauge into?
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-nick  



Joined: 16 Nov 2002
Posts: 2699
Location: Cambridge, MA

PostPosted: Wed Dec 08, 2004 2:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's a simple Grainger valve and is what I'm using. Just cut the rubber line that goes from the charge tube down to the wastegate and plumb it in the middle.

Be sure to have a boost gauge first!

nick
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Paul  



Joined: 02 Nov 2002
Posts: 9434
Location: Southeast Wisconsin

PostPosted: Wed Dec 08, 2004 4:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

numbbers wrote:
Not the cheapest. Go to home depot, and buy the brass in line regulator for five bucks. I will screw right into the pressure duct, and the hose screws to the other end. Fully adjustable.


numbbers could you email me the picture and I'll post it here? I guess I'll give up on finding a 10 PSI spring and do as you did.
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cleethorpes  



Joined: 26 Jan 2004
Posts: 186
Location: cleethorpes (oddly enough!)

PostPosted: Wed Dec 08, 2004 11:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Does anyone have a photo of the install of a anodized type valve etc.

I'm pretty clueless when it comes to it.

Also someone somewhere has photos of the install of their front mount ic. It used metal tubing and this looks like the route i need to take so if you know, please let me know!

thanks!!
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CMXXXI  



Joined: 05 Nov 2002
Posts: 1939
Location: Vicksburg, MS

PostPosted: Thu Dec 09, 2004 4:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can't help with the IC or control valve, but I tapped my boost gauge into the vacuum line that goes into the throttle body, right at the butterfly. I used a brass "T" with barbed ends and ran the vacuum line from the TB behind the brake booster and through the firewall where the main wiring harness goes through.

Click on the photo below for more, larger images


edit - changed photo location on server
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Glen931  



Joined: 11 Mar 2005
Posts: 52
Location: Grants Pass, Oregon

PostPosted: Fri Mar 11, 2005 4:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

numbbers I have also been using one of those made from hardware stores on my inferior american car. They are very cheap and very effective. The only thing is that you might want to lock tite it or tape it once you get it set to keep it from vibrating and changing boost on you.
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1980 porsche 931 beige
1987 Porsche 951 red, 51kmiles.. prefect cond.
1978 ford fairmont wagon 2.3 turbo engine
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Smoothie  



Joined: 01 Jan 2003
Posts: 8030
Location: DE (the one near MD, PA, NJ)

PostPosted: Fri Mar 11, 2005 5:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good point. The one in this pic - http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/smoothies931pics/detail?.dir=bdb3&.dnm=85e7.jpg&.src=ph unscrewed itself with the vibrations, popped open and sprang its' innerds all over a road somewhere. The next one I installed I unscrewed and screwed back together with a helping of superglue on its' threads. That takes care of that problem. Carefull with the threadlockers because some of them eat plastic.

Welcome to the forum, Glen.
What year is your car? ('79-'80 have some differences from '81-'82 - mainly in the turbo and ignition and late '82 got a different hvac system)
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"..it's made in Germany. You know the Germans always make good stuff."


'82 924T, US version, dark green metallic, 5 speed Audi 016G gearbox
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Glen931  



Joined: 11 Mar 2005
Posts: 52
Location: Grants Pass, Oregon

PostPosted: Sat Mar 12, 2005 4:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

yeah i speak from experiance also smoothie. On my ford I run 22psi but the valve rattled loose and It spiked to 30psi one time. good thing it had the knock sensor plugged in and an intercooler that is bigger than my radiator. no harm done
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"Nitrous is like a hot chick with an STD, you know you want to hit it, but you are afraid of the consequences"

1980 porsche 931 beige
1987 Porsche 951 red, 51kmiles.. prefect cond.
1978 ford fairmont wagon 2.3 turbo engine
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