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An electronics question dealing with tach side of coil.
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Smoothie  



Joined: 01 Jan 2003
Posts: 8032
Location: DE (the one near MD, PA, NJ)

PostPosted: Fri Nov 05, 2004 3:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

John Brown wrote:
BTW, somebody please tell me if I'm stupid, but I come across comments that seem to imply the Bosch ignition (on the 924) is a capacitive discharge type. For the life of me all the information and observations I can find are that all of the various incarnations used on the 924 were inductive types. Am I missing something?

All of the 924 electronic ignitions are referred to as "Transistor Ignition" or "TI" (aka "TCI") in the books and manuals that I have except for the DITC on '81-up 931's which is "Semiconductor Ignition" (since the advance/retard are determined electronically and not by the distributor). 924's up to 1980 got induction transmitter distributors and from '81-on got Hall transmitters (TCI-H ignition). The "H" in TCI-H meaning "Hall" transmitter. The crank sensor on DITC equipped 931's should be inductive. Longish story short - Capacitive Discharge Ignition (CDI) is shown in my Bosch book as seperate and different from Transistor Ignition. Also, CDI stores the spark energy in a capacitor and there's not much room for a sizable capacitor in that little trigger box down on the fenderwell.
So sorry, we can't call you stupid today.
Bosch doesn't even seem too fond of CDI.. They say, "For many applications, the spark duration of 0.1 - 0.3 ms is too brief to ensure that the air-fuel mixture will ignite reliably. Thus CDI is only designed for specific types of engine, and today [c1993] its' use is restricted to a few applications only, as transistorized ignition systems have virtually the same performance. CDI is not suited for aftermarket installations."
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924RACR  



Joined: 29 Jul 2001
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Location: Royal Oak, MI, USA

PostPosted: Fri Nov 05, 2004 10:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good work, Smoothie. This may explain why even Permatune warns that you may experience misfires when swapping in their CD ignition box, if any part of the ignition system is not up to snuff...

OTOH, to be able to swap in a box with a rev-limiter would be nice for the racers...
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Smoothie  



Joined: 01 Jan 2003
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Location: DE (the one near MD, PA, NJ)

PostPosted: Sat Nov 06, 2004 12:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here's an adjustable shift light - no "pills" needed. Problem is it only deals with one rpm setting at a time. Then again, you could get 3 for ~$110, but then again by the time all 3 lit up, you'd be blinded. - http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=esearch.asp&N=100&Ntk=PartSearch&Ntt=SUM-G2945+&x=18&y=12

Or how about a light that uses pills - figure out the resistances needed to replace the pills and give you the shift points you need, then wire the 3 resistors into a 3-position switch and mount the switch to your shifter. -Or [this one's off-the-wall and would be tricky] if there's a way to use momentary switches - mounted so they're activated in turn by the position of the shifter. - http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=partdetail.asp&part=ATM%2D5330&N=110&Ntk=KeywordSearch&Ntt=shift+light
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CMXXXI  



Joined: 05 Nov 2002
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Location: Vicksburg, MS

PostPosted: Sat Nov 06, 2004 8:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just so happens I re-set my timing and idle this afternoon. My hand-held tachometer has been acting up (bad tach-dwell switch) and on a fluke I measured the voltage on the (-) side of the coil, and it was something like 5.6v, regardless of RPM. As JB says, the tach just measures the pulses, on/off/on/off/on...

On a side note, does anyone have informal records of the difference between a shop tachometer and the one that is in the dash? My hand-held says 1000rpm, but the in-dash one reads about 1200. At 2Krmp on the hand-held, the dash says about 2300. I set my idle based on the hand-held to 900 rpm, but the in-dash reads about 1050-1100. Just curious if there is any documented history as to the OEM tach's accuracy. (Is there any way to "positively" calibrate a hand-held unit?)
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augidog  



Joined: 03 Mar 2003
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 06, 2004 10:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

CMXXXI wrote:
Just so happens I re-set my timing and idle this afternoon. My hand-held tachometer has been acting up (bad tach-dwell switch) and on a fluke I measured the voltage on the (-) side of the coil, and it was something like 5.6v, regardless of RPM. As JB says, the tach just measures the pulses, on/off/on/off/on...



5.6 will light a bulb. Since the volts stay the same, I wonder if the resistance increases (why does the tach rise and lower)?
If so, then I'm half way there. I just need to find a pass through filter at that .ohm =rpm setting and wire in the bulb afterward. I’m just going to use my high beam indicator. I know when my high beams are on; I don't need a light for that.

I always use a digital tach to set my rpm. My tach reads about the same as yours in comparison to the hand held.
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Smoothie  



Joined: 01 Jan 2003
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Location: DE (the one near MD, PA, NJ)

PostPosted: Sat Nov 06, 2004 11:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think a better choice of light would be the o2 sensor light if you have one. That thing really gets your attention - it's downright annoying in fact while the highbeam light isn't all that bright. -And if what you're pondering works out for you, I'd take the voltage you get out of it (assuming it'll be something lower than 12V), use that lower voltage to switch on a relay that's in turn wired to supply 12V to light your light.

Here's something on high-pass filters - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/High-pass_filter
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augidog  



Joined: 03 Mar 2003
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 06, 2004 11:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Smoothie wrote:
I think a better choice of light would be the o2 sensor light if you have one. That thing really gets your attention - it's downright annoying in fact while the highbeam light isn't all that bright. -And if what you're pondering works out for you, I'd take the voltage you get out of it (assuming it'll be something lower than 12V), use that lower voltage to switch on a relay that's in turn wired to supply 12V to light your light.


Yes your right.
12v with a 5v relay.
If I hook up a variable potentiometer to the 5v side of the coil, will 5v pass through only at the desired value?
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John Brown  



Joined: 07 Nov 2002
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 06, 2004 12:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the confirmation. Thought maybe I was going senile.

I'm no expert but CD ignition doesn't make much sense to me. Not with today's technology.

Transistor ignition was a big deal around 1965 or so I think. Remember my Dad putting 'transistor ignition' on a TR3 about then. 'Course, to the extent that transistor ignition is mainly about how the primary is switched, it would apply to either inductive or capacitive systems.
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Smoothie  



Joined: 01 Jan 2003
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Location: DE (the one near MD, PA, NJ)

PostPosted: Sat Nov 06, 2004 2:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

augidog wrote:
If I hook up a variable potentiometer to the 5v side of the coil, will 5v pass through only at the desired value?

I'm not much of an electronics geek, but I do know you need something more than just a potentiometer. That link to the high-pass filter info says something about a capacitor in series and a resistor in parallel and gives an idea how to do the math to determine what values of each to use to provide a cut-off at a certain frequency. Actually, I had no idea at all what type of circuitry you'd need until you used the words "pass through filter" - then I did a search and got myself a brief edumacation. I'm still not 100% sure that's what's needed - a high-pass filter I think would only block the pulses below whatever frequency it's designed for and I don't know...would that include the 5V you're talking about?..or is that 5V always there with the pulses being another voltage signal on top of that?
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Sleykin  



Joined: 30 Apr 2003
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Location: Medford, Oregon USA

PostPosted: Sat Nov 06, 2004 4:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The digital voltmeter is measuring the peak (or nearly the peak) voltage of the pulses. It is concivable to make a simple R/C time constant that would output a voltage proportianal to the frequency of the pulses. Pulse duration would also come into play here. You could then use a diferential amplifier with a pre-set voltage on the proportioning input and wire it as a schmdit trigger to fire a lamp or a relay. It would not be very precise though. A better method would be to use a DAC and set a trigger point from that. You could use micro switches on the shift lever to insert the appropriate bias for the shift points you want to set. That way one light would tell you when to shift...but it seems like a lot of bother to me
Several other ways would work but all would be more involved.
Sensors on the tach to fire a light when the needle goes by?
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augidog  



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PostPosted: Mon Nov 08, 2004 10:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just found this-Will it work?
Quote is taken from the below source:

You could adjust the value of the 100k resistor to change the RPM setting. This should work, as when the engine is running at too low an RPM the 555 will time out before the next input pulse.



http://www.electronic-circuits-diagrams.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=66&sid=8d7012bacb798ec1f4e327a62660b092

http://www.electronics123.com/amazon/catalogue/c3-3-11.htm
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Sleykin  



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PostPosted: Mon Nov 08, 2004 3:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Unless I am mistaken this circuit will give you a blinking light below a certain input frequency and a steady light if the frequency goes above the set point. Let me dig out some of my old "cookbooks" and see if I don't have a circuit for you.
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Lizard  



Joined: 03 Nov 2002
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 08, 2004 3:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sleykin wrote:
Unless I am mistaken this circuit will give you a blinking light below a certain input frequency and a steady light if the frequency goes above the set point. Let me dig out some of my old "cookbooks" and see if I don't have a circuit for you.


man that would really be annoying
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leadfoot  



Joined: 11 Dec 2002
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 10, 2004 7:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You will have a steady stream of incoming pulses with no break, there may be better ways of doing this but you could run the square wave signal from the tach into an opto isolator(so that only signal passes, run this signal through a bandpass filter and use this to trigger a flip flop arrangement(simple 555 timer circuit) driving an led or globe. This with pulse the led, also this timing can be altered by running it through a logic gate to slow down the pulse counting...
For the bandpass filter you can use the example of a parametric equaliser. This circuit will also give you an adjustable Q and centre frequency shift, allowing you to tune into the desired trigger frequency by narrowing the bandwidth, you can just ignore the amplification of this circuit by not running it through the feedback resistor arrangment.
Leadfoot
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MunkPuppy  



Joined: 02 Jul 2003
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 11, 2004 10:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

if you really want a simple alternative for a tach shift light, you could always put in a little wire that contacts teh tach needle at a certain RPM. Of course, doing that would require disassembly of your tach, and teh possibility of it never working again

It is my understanding that you need a circuit that will trigger a light when it recieves pulses that are less than x milliseconds apart. Obviously, the circuit must know to keep the light off when the pulses are greater than x ms apart. I'm no electronics guy, but my brother is an electronics tech and designer. I'm sure he'll have an idea or 2 on how this can be done. Seems to me like it would be a simple timing circuit probably requiring minimal components.
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