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Rear Drum Rebuild
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PopUpProject  



Joined: 06 Aug 2025
Posts: 111
Location: NE Ohio

PostPosted: Mon Nov 10, 2025 11:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Raize wrote:
Mine always came off with a hammer. Try to hit them around the base where they mount to the axle obviously maybe using a block of wood so you don't bend them.

I repaired mine by welding and they were fine after that. They are pretty thick metal but they get chewed around the adjuster holes so I just welded in a couple of washers to replace the holes.


Thanks Raize!! I was more concerned with the side of the backing plate sticking to the rest of the components in there, but a hammer is a good idea if I don't rage out on them XD Also, welding in washers is actually pretty genius, do you happen to remember what size you used?
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Joined: 18 Sep 2013
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 11, 2025 7:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

PopUpProject wrote:

Thanks Raize!! I was more concerned with the side of the backing plate sticking to the rest of the components in there, but a hammer is a good idea if I don't rage out on them XD Also, welding in washers is actually pretty genius, do you happen to remember what size you used?


The most sticky thing is usually the cylinder itself. Just keep in mind you can destroy whatever you want if you're replacing it so just grind off bolt heads if you need to etc if it helps preserve the actually important bit (backing plate).

I imagine they were M12 washers but you can size them based on the plugs for the access holes. These plugs are important for longevity of brake drum refurb to keep water out of the adjusters so if they are missing they should be replaced.
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 12, 2025 12:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Raize!!!

Back to summon the parents::

I am ordering the last batch of what I think are important bits and I can't find the PNs on the PET for the rear drums for parts #17, 21, 28, 29, and 30. Does anyone know the PN for these?

I believe the kit I ordered covers springs 16, 18, and 19, but I would like to refresh the other springs and the twisty adjuster fork thing (#28 ) as I'm almost positive it won't actually adjust. I believe my ebrake components are "okay" (#21, 29, 30) as the ebrake is my only form of brake currently, but would like to try and refresh while I'm in there if I can.

PET page I'm using for reference: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1PbOKOAflw0lXL3sFLOIMjnKA3IrZvH3s/view?usp=sharing
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924RACR  



Joined: 29 Jul 2001
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 12, 2025 9:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hmmm - I'm not sure you have those parts? The only rear drum I worked on - which FWIW was a 77.5 - looked like the upper diagram, not the lower.

As such, the adjusters were parts 3 & 4 (doubled, one for each shoe). Parts 29 and 30 don't have an equivalent.

But perhaps the later brakes used the lower diagram? If I'm current on the status, you haven't pulled the drums off yet, which leaves it as an open question which brakes you have?
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PopUpProject  



Joined: 06 Aug 2025
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Location: NE Ohio

PostPosted: Wed Nov 12, 2025 10:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

924RACR wrote:
Hmmm - I'm not sure you have those parts? The only rear drum I worked on - which FWIW was a 77.5 - looked like the upper diagram, not the lower.

As such, the adjusters were parts 3 & 4 (doubled, one for each shoe). Parts 29 and 30 don't have an equivalent.

But perhaps the later brakes used the lower diagram? If I'm current on the status, you haven't pulled the drums off yet, which leaves it as an open question which brakes you have?


wellllllllllllllllllll that's fun. I thought the diagram was the left (bottom) and right (top). But yeah I have not actually taken off the wheels or drums yet as I was trying to be prepared with all the parts before she goes into air jail.
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 12, 2025 11:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think the answer to that is in the part #s for the brake shoes - notice that the number for (9) is shown, but not (10).

But, also, part #(20) - the cable lever - which is only on the upper diagram, shows different numbers for LH and RH parts as you'd expect. Same also for the backing plate (7).
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 13, 2025 12:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

924RACR wrote:
I think the answer to that is in the part #s for the brake shoes - notice that the number for (9) is shown, but not (10).

But, also, part #(20) - the cable lever - which is only on the upper diagram, shows different numbers for LH and RH parts as you'd expect. Same also for the backing plate (7).


Welp. ####. This is why I summon you guys because good lordy I clearly have no idea what I'm doing. I'm hoping now that I was actually ordering the right stuff because if not welp I got like six boxes arriving of parts and this is gunna be a lot of fun tryna figure out what's actually right or not.

This is what I've ordered so far for the brakes:

The shoes I ordered look like 9, the leaf springs (2), adjusting nuts and bolts (3 and 4), the dust caps for the backing plates (1), the spring kit covers 5,6,12,16,and 18, horseshoe washer (22), new cylinders (477 611 055 E), new bleeder valves for front and rear, a spring/seal kit for the cylinders because I realized after that the PET shows the cylinder exploded, and wheel seals
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Last edited by PopUpProject on Tue Nov 25, 2025 11:09 pm; edited 1 time in total
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 24, 2025 11:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Update:

Confirmed I have the upper diagram style brakes and they were very crusty: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1HxbIkpE1JWpNv-XSuUqZPMBw4JRu_hSh/view?usp=sharing I did buy the right parts!!! I just also picked up cylinder rebuild kits I don't need atm but will hold onto for the future. I also did the wheel seals while we were in there. I gotta go back tonight to finish everything up but I do need some advice.

The leaf spring holder box with the adjuster nut and bolt on my passenger side is too wallered out to hold the new leaf spring. What do yall suggest to fix that? Can I still adjust the brake shoes properly without that beneath the adjuster nuts????
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 25, 2025 12:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

PopUpProject wrote:

The leaf spring holder box with the adjuster nut and bolt on my passenger side is too wallered out to hold the new leaf spring. What do yall suggest to fix that? Can I still adjust the brake shoes properly without that beneath the adjuster nuts????


I just welded it on with a little weld in the centre.
Are you replacing the cylinders?
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 25, 2025 12:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Raize wrote:


I just welded it on with a little weld in the centre.
Are you replacing the cylinders?


Oh sweet, we'll have to try that! I put new cylinders on and basically refreshed the entire rear system components with the wire wheel and installed all the new pieces. My only complaint about the beck arnley spring kit is the stubby springs go cockeyed when you get them seated with the washer and stabby nail https://drive.google.com/file/d/1wyW0OGImkokrRf3sVV9ELynkNU2U4mRr/view?usp=sharing
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 25, 2025 1:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Since you did the wheel seal, remember that the axle spacer is flat on one side and chamfered on the other and the chamfer needs to be on the inboard side so it clears the roller bearing elements.
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 25, 2025 2:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Raize wrote:
Since you did the wheel seal, remember that the axle spacer is flat on one side and chamfered on the other and the chamfer needs to be on the inboard side so it clears the roller bearing elements.


uhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh for us all we did was take off the 4 bolt cover around the axle shaft, popped out the wheel seal from inside of that and then put the new one in and bolted it all back together.

Not sure if that was the right approach or not based on reading that????
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 25, 2025 10:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you didn't remove the spacer, then no worries about reassembling incorrectly, you should be fine.
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 26, 2025 1:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

My spacer would always tend to come out with the seal when I pulled off the seal housing, maybe just me.
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 05, 2025 1:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The never ending brake saga update:

Double checked everything and the spacer didn't go anywhere yay! In other news, put the rear back together and we bled the brakes and I only sorta have pedal pressure back. When we were bleeding the driver front and passenger rear were barely pushing any fluid out (no more air in the lines that we know of and pumped the brakes for a solid ten minutes tryna get them to bleed right) but the passenger front and driver rear were bleeding straight streams after getting the air out.

Does this mean I need a new MC? We're thinking it means I need to either get a rebuild kit (if I can find the appropriate seals as I've seen on here it can be a PITA to find the right ones) or full send a new MC and brake booster.

In unrelated news, I'm now having issues with staying in gear so my next mission will be to do the linkage after we figure out these brakes. She goes into gear, then tries to pop out, and reverse is once again almost impossible to get into yayyyyyyyyyyyy
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