924Board.org

[harekiller]

Well, to make a short story long.

I have been trying to get this wonderful 82-924 to charge for a year. It will charge when it wants to and stops when it wants. I have crawled in
and around every part of this wonderful ld car and can't fix it.
Here's what I have done so far:

I replaced the alternator, wiring harness from alternator to starter to battery plug. I "think I have checked inside but I must be missing
something. The charging light goes out when I start the car, I have changed the cluster. Checked the Grounds and even added a few!

The POer's have cut and patched wire all under the dash.

Group, please tell me what to check for under the dash, how to test for what ever is telling it not to charge. I'm a old telephone man so I can
use meters and read prints. I also have the set of Porsche manuals.

HELP,
Happy New Year

Burr

_________________
Burr
Ridgecrest/Grand Terrace, California
924's/931 & 914

[ This Message was edited by: harekiller on 2001-12-29 10:30 ]

[wdb]

is there no juice coming out of altenator or is it getting lost on its way to the battery?
have you checked the obvious bad battery, pinched or cooked wires on the starter

[larso]

Maybe there is a short and you are blowing the diodes in the alt every time you put a new one on, or you have a bad battery.

[harekiller]

Thanks gang. I'll check all these thing when I get back next week.

[kaffine krazed]

How do you know the alternator is not charging?

[numbers]

Well, as you probably know, the primary electrical problem with these cars is the negative battery cable that runs to the firewall. Use your multimeter to see if you are droping any voltage across it. Then do the same check directly from the battery to the block. If either indicates a problem, replace the ground strap with a good insulated battery cable, and then run another cable from the firewall connection to the engine block. If you want to check out your charging circuit, you will need an ampmeter, not just the milleampmeter available on your multimeter. The cheapest is to get an automotive add on type available at most autoparts stores, or through JC Whitney. Disconnect the battery lead from the alternator and hook the meter to this lead and the post on the alternator (a standard series connection). Put you voltmeter across the battery posts and you are ready to trouble shoot. At start-up, battery voltage should go right up to at least 14 volts, and the current should jump to about 30 amps, and then slowly go down to about and amp or two as the battery charges. If this works, turn on everything that uses electricity on the car, and the current should go up to about 6 to 10 amps, with no loss of voltage. If all of that checks out, then you are going to have to play around with your connections and fuses until you find the one that is opening or shorting. Hope this helps.

[harekiller]

[quote]
On 2002-01-01 04:21, numbers wrote:
Well, as you probably know, the primary electrical problem with these cars is the negative battery cable that runs to the firewall. Use your multimeter to see if you are droping any voltage across it. Then do the same check directly from the battery to the block. If either indicates a problem, replace the ground strap with a good insulated battery cable, and then run another cable from the firewall connection to the engine block. If you want to check out your charging circuit, you will need an ampmeter, not just the milleampmeter available on your multimeter. The cheapest is to get an automotive add on type available at most autoparts stores, or through JC Whitney. Disconnect the battery lead from the alternator and hook the meter to this lead and the post on the alternator (a standard series connection). Put you voltmeter across the battery posts and you are ready to trouble shoot. At start-up, battery voltage should go right up to at least 14 volts, and the current should jump to about 30 amps, and then slowly go down to about and amp or two as the battery charges. If this works, turn on everything that uses electricity on the car, and the current should go up to about 6 to 10 amps, with no loss of voltage. If all of that checks out, then you are going to have to play around with your connections and fuses until you find the one that is opening or shorting. Hope this helps.
[/quot

[harekiller]

Thanks,
Good advose things I'll check those things when I get home next week.

Thanks
Burr