924Board.org

Ghosthacker · Joined: 10 Feb 2003 Posts: 78 Location: Fort Worth, Texas

I'd like to know best performance to $ mods for an '88 924s

P.S. I just wanna do a little light PCA autocross and assure my victory against the little punk ass down the street in his fart-can del-slow
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88 924S Red

Lizard · Posted: Wed Feb 26, 2003 2:07 am Post subject:

haha, I believe the word I am looking for is newbie

, I would have to say performance to $ mods for 924S, would be to make it a 924SC (sc stands for Super Charger if you get me

) now for suspension, I would have to say perf products lowering springs with about 250#, and add coil overs to the back
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3 928s,

81turbo · Joined: 03 Nov 2002 Posts: 1065 Location: Oakland, CA

Lizard you are so loose when it is other peoples money.

Frankly you are not going to get alot of horspower out of your car without spending serious cash. A supercharger kit is a good idea but costs a few grand. I say you do the suspension and be happy with your HP.

Lizard · Posted: Wed Feb 26, 2003 2:59 am Post subject:

but it is easier to spend other peoples money and HP easyness and money a SC is probably the best option even though a few grand
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3 928s,

924RACR · Posted: Wed Feb 26, 2003 3:14 am Post subject:

Shocks, definitely. Swaybars if you've still got cash to spend. Go with the factory 968 ClubSport setup from Paragon or 944Racing.com - it's much cheaper than Weltmeister, and better quality. Shocks are like religion, but I'd recommend Konis or Bilsteins. Konis are fun since they're adjustable, but you do have to know what you're doing in order to get any benefit.

Obviously you have to have good tires to start with.
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Vaughan Scott
Webmeister
'79 924 #77 SCCA H Prod racecar
'82 931 Plat. Silver
#25 Hidari Firefly P2 sports prototype

gohim · Joined: 02 Nov 2002 Posts: 4459 Location: Rialto, CA

Current Maintenance Schedule, Factory Service Manuals, Decent Tires, & Driving School.

Bring your car up to date on the Maintenance Schedule first to protect you investment. If you do not have written service records for the car that show it has had the "Front Of Engine Service" done in the past three years or 30K miles, you are risking severe engine damage or the entire engine ($2.5K-$3.5K damage). The front of engine service includes the timing and balance shaft belts, front of engine oil seals, pulleys, rollers, and water pump. This is going to cost you somewhere between $1.2K-$2.0K for parts and labor depending on where you have the work done. If you want to try to do the labor yourself and sve the labor charges, some special tools will be required to install and tension the belts (cost will be around $550-$600, less than the cost of labor that would be paid to a professional mechanic with the proper tools and experience).

Check the clutch system. Any sort of racing is hard on the clutch components, and replacing the clutch will cost between $500-$600 for parts (make sure the clutch disc, clutch master cylinder, and slave cylinder are in perfect condition) and $500-$1K for labor. Best to make sure that it is in good condition and not DNF or get stranded on the side of the road.

If you are serious about autocrossing the car with the PCA, buy a set of Factory Service Manuals and some original sales Literature for the car. Find out what parts of the car are original, what parts have been replaced, and what parts may have been installed that would be considered upgrades or modifications to the original equipment.

Then you can study PCA Classification Rules and determine what modifications would be legal, and which ones would bump you from the class that you are condsidering running in. This will save you time and money. No need to throw money into parts and labor that will make you uncompetitive in a Group that you don't want to run in (are forced to run with because of modifications that you made).

Tires. At this point, if your tires are in poor physical condition (worn out, wrong size, old and cracked/cracking), you can consider buying some new tires. If you are using the car as a daily driver, super soft, shaved gumball race tires are not the way to go. If you are planning on a street drivable class, a decent set of reasonably priced, performance or high performance touring car cars will probably fit the bill ($400-600 for a set, installed on the car).

Then, you should spend some money on driving school. Most drivers are not getting the most from could from their unmodified cars. Learn your limits, and the limits of the car before you spend any money on speed upgrades. No need to spend money on component upgrades until after you understand what is working the best it can with your driving skills, and what could benefit from a class legal upgrade.

AppleBit · Joined: 16 Nov 2002 Posts: 1516 Location: Minneapolis, MN

ok, to spend a little cash and make some serious power for the money:

drop a cold air intake in the car... that's going to help a little
header = good power increase on your car
I believe your car can be chipped
weight reduction - there are a lot of items you can take out
make sure your car is running at top notch

these are just some of the things I would say to start off with...

simsport · Joined: 06 Nov 2002 Posts: 573 Location: UK Warrington

I'd have to agree with all who are saying improve the handling and brakes first.
Truth is that when you start the car is faster than you are and control is key. You may well wing it and get around the track but the habits you learn in dealing with a poorly set up car are all bad. Smoothest does best in the long run, and smooth goes for the car too.

I would aim to get the brakes sorted first so that they pull you up easily from reasoanble temps and do not fade when used hard. You want a pad material that wont grab as for a beginner its likely you will stamp rather than feed the brakes until you get used to setting the car up on the brakes going into a corner etc.

Having said that its no use if the car handles like a pig so make sure it has damping and roll stiffness to keep it all predictable. No real need to spend a lot or to have mega adjustable kit. Best to keep it simple and uprate to road sport dampers for cheaper money and , as has been suggested, use roll bar uprates from models in the range such as the 944t or 968s .

Other than that std bushes need to be ok and with decent tyres the car will be safe and still a fair bit quicker than you are, so you can learn about it and how it behaves and perhaps more importantly how you behave .

If this sounds like I know what I'm doing then wrong!.....but I have made a few mistakes and did start speed events some 10 years or so ago and so have seen my own errors and that of a few good friends.

To quote a common race term 'slow in, fast out' which is meant to be about cornering speeds but in truth seems to me to be about driving skills in total. Take the time to learn well now and live with being a bit slower intialy rather than 'going for it' and be a lot faster later. I can't heel&toe with any accuracy, I didnt learn the lesson early and now its a bad habit that costs me.

Cheers
Simon
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Blown is always best!

chriso · Joined: 23 Dec 2002 Posts: 36 Location: Lincoln Nebraska

Spend the money on improving the driver first. 1st Driving school. 2nd Safety equipment 3rd car. You can always take the first two with you if the 3rd one fails. Spend the money learning consistancey. It is the best performance upgrade you can buy.
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86 924S + 86 944T = one big smile
There is no quick fix or cheap power, not in the Porsche world so learn to drive your car.

Fireball · Joined: 21 Mar 2003 Posts: 13

TURBO or SUPERCHARGER Needs more power

wuilman · Posted: Fri Mar 21, 2003 9:22 am Post subject: power

id have to agree with a litle of everything:improve driving skillz,tires,wheels, brakes,springs,shox, sway bar,intake, exhaust,and lighten up the car take out some of the interior you dont need.with all that said and done your going to spend a pretty penny!

and you should beat the coffe can-stereo obssesed-not knowing how to work on a car honda boy! whew

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