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PopUpProject
Joined: 06 Aug 2025
Posts: 105
Location: NE Ohio
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 Posted: Mon Mar 02, 2026 7:47 am Post subject: |
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| Raize wrote: | Might be that the options were in all the looms but the relays and the actual hardware not present. Probably just the previous owner couldn’t afford relays or stole them for something else.
You’re missing in the top row:
Fuel pump
Fog lamp (think these hang below the front bumper, or it might refer to rear fog lights which are in the rear light cluster)
Seat belt warning (lol)
Rear window defogger
And in the bottom row:
Headlight flasher relay (low beam high beam switch)
Extra headlight relay (these are in the front bumper)
Fan relay (not strictly necessary)
Power windows is the one hanging on its own. |
THATS THE WINDOW RELAY???????????? bruh so it is just hanging out for funsies teasing me while I have my head up in the dash tryna look at the rats nest of wires.
We got the car in the shop for the next two weeks and today we tackled the battery ground and put in a more modern ground that isn't just exposed wire. I snagged a video of the upper tray for yall to stare at and see if there's anywhere I should be concerned with. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1mtRMqlZTL2uCs39H2hkQJG1QhNISNNqO/view?usp=sharing
I don't trust myself to not burn the car down playing with the electrical so I am holding off on messing with the relays and fuses until our friend who has a lot more electrical and car knowledge than I do is around
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Poppy the '82 924 Resurrection in Progress |
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924RACR
Joined: 29 Jul 2001
Posts: 9034
Location: Royal Oak, MI, USA
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| Posted: Mon Mar 02, 2026 11:06 pm Post subject: |
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Definitely wants a serious clean and re-seal - but I've seen worse for sure.
Scrape off anything resembling rust, make sure there's no holes, and it looks like your seam sealer has dried up and separated - have had a good bit of that in my car. Cut/scrape out, possibly with a wire wheel (very messy but effective), degrease down to clean metal, paint over if bare - I recommend POR15 - and then apply new seam sealer to get rid of any cabin leaks etc (again, POR15 makes a VERY good product)...
https://www.amazon.com/POR-15-49013-Black-POR-Patch/dp/B00J594AQ2
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Vaughan Scott
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'79 924 #77 SCCA H Prod racecar
'82 931 Plat. Silver
#25 Hidari Firefly P2 sports prototype |
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PopUpProject
Joined: 06 Aug 2025
Posts: 105
Location: NE Ohio
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| Posted: Tue Mar 03, 2026 4:33 am Post subject: |
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| 924RACR wrote: | Definitely wants a serious clean and re-seal - but I've seen worse for sure.
Scrape off anything resembling rust, make sure there's no holes, and it looks like your seam sealer has dried up and separated - have had a good bit of that in my car. Cut/scrape out, possibly with a wire wheel (very messy but effective), degrease down to clean metal, paint over if bare - I recommend POR15 - and then apply new seam sealer to get rid of any cabin leaks etc (again, POR15 makes a VERY good product)...
https://www.amazon.com/POR-15-49013-Black-POR-Patch/dp/B00J594AQ2 |
I'll have to pick some up, I assumed the tray would need some love so it's good to know I'm not completely screwed. This might be a dumb question, but where does seam sealer belong in the tray? I'm assuming I'll find it around the corners where it joints and meets the walls after cleaning it out some more, but I just want to make sure I seal it all up properly if there's a common failure spot
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Poppy the '82 924 Resurrection in Progress |
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924RACR
Joined: 29 Jul 2001
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Location: Royal Oak, MI, USA
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| Posted: Tue Mar 03, 2026 4:48 am Post subject: |
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The seam sealer you want where all the individual steel panels meet... and you can even use it to close over small rust holes, as long as all rotting/rusty metal is removed to bare clean steel and then painted...
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Vaughan Scott
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'79 924 #77 SCCA H Prod racecar
'82 931 Plat. Silver
#25 Hidari Firefly P2 sports prototype |
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PopUpProject
Joined: 06 Aug 2025
Posts: 105
Location: NE Ohio
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| Posted: Tue Mar 03, 2026 4:56 am Post subject: |
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| 924RACR wrote: | | The seam sealer you want where all the individual steel panels meet... and you can even use it to close over small rust holes, as long as all rotting/rusty metal is removed to bare clean steel and then painted... |
Thanks Vaughan!!! I'll report back after clean up/arts and crafts with the battery tray 
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Poppy the '82 924 Resurrection in Progress |
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PopUpProject
Joined: 06 Aug 2025
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| Posted: Tue Mar 03, 2026 9:52 am Post subject: |
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| 924RACR wrote: | | The seam sealer you want where all the individual steel panels meet... and you can even use it to close over small rust holes, as long as all rotting/rusty metal is removed to bare clean steel and then painted... |
So uh what do I do if there's fiberglass in here overlaid the old metal in some parts??????????????????????? I just cleaned out all of the gunk to get ready to wire wheel and uhhhhhhhhhh I was not expecting fiberglass. I also found what looks like is supposed to be a drainage hole? I think? https://drive.google.com/file/d/15RoLsXae4NojmFt6Z9-m8Wl_PUDP8coO/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ZeakECYXNGQXlocqIeyBTnIt3h80O61C/view?usp=sharing
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Poppy the '82 924 Resurrection in Progress |
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924RACR
Joined: 29 Jul 2001
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Location: Royal Oak, MI, USA
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| Posted: Tue Mar 03, 2026 9:44 pm Post subject: |
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Yeah, so the problem with fiberglass is that water could get underneath it and wick in, then start corroding the metal underneath.
But it's easier than grinding out rust and welding it back up properly...
You could try sealing it around the edges, but you won't know if there's damage underneath, and if there is any corrosion it would likely continue to get worse.
Looking up from the inside might give a good sense; may have to remove the glovebox and maybe also drop the AC unit a little to get a good look, but if there's and damage all the way through, you'll be able to see it.
While this metal is all galvanized, the battery acid will cut through that no problem, unfortunately.
We had to fabricate an entirely new battery tray for my Turbo, it was very badly rotted out.
The drainage hole is actually at the front edge of the tray, poking through the firewall by the exhaust manifold - should be easy to see, there's a little pipe about 1" in diameter through the firewall...
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Vaughan Scott
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'79 924 #77 SCCA H Prod racecar
'82 931 Plat. Silver
#25 Hidari Firefly P2 sports prototype |
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PopUpProject
Joined: 06 Aug 2025
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Location: NE Ohio
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| Posted: Wed Mar 04, 2026 7:22 am Post subject: |
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| 924RACR wrote: |
Looking up from the inside might give a good sense; may have to remove the glovebox and maybe also drop the AC unit a little to get a good look, but if there's and damage all the way through, you'll be able to see it.
While this metal is all galvanized, the battery acid will cut through that no problem, unfortunately.
We had to fabricate an entirely new battery tray for my Turbo, it was very badly rotted out.
The drainage hole is actually at the front edge of the tray, poking through the firewall by the exhaust manifold - should be easy to see, there's a little pipe about 1" in diameter through the firewall... |
yeah what's left of the drainage hole recreated by the fiberglass is what I found. It's looking like I'm going to have to rip out the battery tray and lay down some new metal. What all do we have to remove from the interior and the engine bay in order for us to weld in a new sheet safely and not melt anything and/or catch the car on fire?
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Just trying my best to figure this out without total failure
Poppy the '82 924 Resurrection in Progress |
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924RACR
Joined: 29 Jul 2001
Posts: 9034
Location: Royal Oak, MI, USA
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| Posted: Wed Mar 04, 2026 11:10 pm Post subject: |
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Not too much in the engine bay; only real concern might be if there's any of the firewall insulation/noise damping blanket still present.
For the interior... the carpet, sound deadening, and AC unit... but could probably leave the heater core and box in place...
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Vaughan Scott
Webmeister
'79 924 #77 SCCA H Prod racecar
'82 931 Plat. Silver
#25 Hidari Firefly P2 sports prototype |
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