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Oil Pressure/Grounds?

 
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peterld  



Joined: 10 Dec 2006
Posts: 700
Location: Noosa Heads QLD Australia

PostPosted: Wed May 02, 2018 6:26 pm    Post subject: Oil Pressure/Grounds? Reply with quote

Still having several problems on trying to resurrect an S2.

Oil pressure guage just sits at max (off the clock) and oil light is on when the car is fired up. Oil is getting up to the head/cam so I am suspecting a poor earth somewhere. Have checked/cleaned/lubed (dielectric grease) all grounds I can find. So before I pull the distributor out so that I can get my fat hands onto the pressure switch, is there somewhere else I should be looking?

Maybe connected (grounds), maybe not - when the car runs, the fuel relay is very noisy (loud hammering sound). Thinking the relay was on the way out, I replaced it with new...but the noise persists, though a little subdued. There are new fuel pumps on board ( both internal and external) and I've checked all grounds near them and the fuel relay. Where else should I look?

When first buttoned up, but before the car was running, the clutch pedal felt fine. Now the clutch pedal goes to the floor and stays there. If I toe it back there seems to be enough spring from the return spring. I'm assuming the slave cylinder is kaput and I have ordered a repair kit, but this only includes seals and circlip. Is the master cylinder also a culprit in this scenario

Cheers

Pete
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924RACR  



Joined: 29 Jul 2001
Posts: 8118
Location: Royal Oak, MI, USA

PostPosted: Wed May 02, 2018 10:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oil gauge/pressure - probably shorted to ground between the gauge/light and the sender. That's usually what causes those results. So look for the broken wire.

Clutch - rebuild or replace both cylinders, yes, usually because it's such a pain to bleed. Look for weeping on the carpet under where the pushrod goes through the firewall, too - often they will dribble hydraulic fluid out that side when they go.

To bleed - use a mightyvac on the slave before bolting in to the bellhousing.

The fuel pump relay grounds through the overboost switch on the intake charge tube... maybe try a regular ground? Also check for other resistance sources, like the fuse... I've heard of loud pumps (due to restrictions or running dry), but not loud relays...
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Vaughan Scott
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'79 924 #77 ITB racecar
'82 931 Plat. Silver
#25 Hidari Firefly P2 sports prototype
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peterld  



Joined: 10 Dec 2006
Posts: 700
Location: Noosa Heads QLD Australia

PostPosted: Thu May 03, 2018 1:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Vaughan.....that's my 'to do' list now for the next few nights.

BTW....which one was you on the Singer vid? Must have been just about the most fun you can have with your pants on!
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924RACR  



Joined: 29 Jul 2001
Posts: 8118
Location: Royal Oak, MI, USA

PostPosted: Thu May 03, 2018 11:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was riding shotgun with Marino, wearing brown hat and sunglasses (and grinning like a fool)... seen only in the in-car shots...

It'll be more fun when we get it out on some clean, dry, warm pavement...
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Vaughan Scott
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'79 924 #77 ITB racecar
'82 931 Plat. Silver
#25 Hidari Firefly P2 sports prototype
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peterld  



Joined: 10 Dec 2006
Posts: 700
Location: Noosa Heads QLD Australia

PostPosted: Fri Jun 01, 2018 12:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Finally fixed the oil pressure light/guage issue...and it sure took some finding. Went back over everything, behind dash, behind console, fuse box, body grounds, pulled oil sender, etc, etc......and nothing. While pulling the console out again (and I had left ignition on/parking lights on, but no fuel pump actuation).....I noticed a flickering in the oil guage light. On real close inspection of the wiring I noticed the wiring on the teeny tiny spade fittings (under the insulation) for the light bulbs had come adrift and were making intermittent contact. So after all that, it wasn't a grounding problem, but a power problem!
Thereupon I carefully unpicked EVERY connection behind the console/heater/dash and recrimped/soldered/shrink-wrapped the buggers! Result: every guage and lamp now works like it should. What a pain!

Fitted the clutch slave cylinder kit (after lightly honing with 2000 abrasive) but still not great, so had to stump up for a new slave cylinder (expensive these days) and clutch is now great.

So, what to do, but take it around the block (for the first time since 2003) before I put the hood back on. Phew...scary. 500 metres down the road I apply the brakes and they almost hit the floor, around a corner and up a small rise and it struggles in 3rd, then struggles in 2nd, but scoots in 1st! Barely get home, but seems to have no problem cutting and shutting in 1st or reverse while I get it backed into the garage.
It idles very low, seems to need more gas, but revs out Ok. Brake pedal is solid on every attempt so I switch off to have a think about it while I do a front end alignment. In the course of the alignment, I have to move it several feet to resettle the suspension, and on one attempt the brake pedal almost goes to the floor again.

So here's what I'm thinking: Brakes were cleaned and powerbled extensively (1 litre of fluid) and are solid with motor off but when motor is running, can/and do give a looong pedal. Is this a sign of booster failure?
General running: Low idle which does not respond to adjustment. Motor seemed to want/need more fuel on it's brief journey yet back in the garage it is very obviously running rich to the point where I have fouled a plug in trying to run the CIS tester. Cold test revealed fuel pressures in-spec and bleed down in recommended times.
Oh, and that fuel relay...still hammering away, even though I fitted an extra ground. Noticed it to be a little quieter when the car is up in the rev range.

Was hoping to give the car a run in our local Hillclimb in a week's time, but I think that's out of the window now.
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