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12,000 RPM FJ20 Transplant

 
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Member6000  



Joined: 14 Aug 2015
Posts: 3
Location: Hebron, Ohio

PostPosted: Mon May 01, 2017 1:18 pm    Post subject: 12,000 RPM FJ20 Transplant Reply with quote

Hello everyone!

I acquired a 1982 924 N/A a few years ago as a project to fix and flip. With a solid body in need of paint, a fresh interior, and what was suspected to be just a wiring problem I thought everything was going to be easy breezy! I diagnosed a bad fuel pump, then found the tank and most of the fuel system in need of repair since it had sat a couple of years. Quickly my mind went from stock rebuild to wild modification!

I work in an area of Ohio where there are many dirt track racers, tractor and truck pullers, hot rod and rat rodders, and a simple influx of hair brained individuals with decent mechanics skills and zero effs to give. This is where I stumbled upon the fire breathing ear shattering monstrosity that I have selected to destroy every drive line component on my poor 924.

For a little bit about the engine. It is a Nissan FJ20E, judging from the block number the donor car was an 81-82 Skyline DR30. It has twin Weber 45DCOE carbs, dome top pistons, massive cams, H-Beam rods, knife edged crank, lightweight flywheel and extensive head work. The previous owner first had it in a Nissan 510 and ran a couple races on dirt circle track with it in a modified 4 cylinder class. That was until they found out what the engine was and they banned him from the class. He then installed the engine in a 4 cylinder class pulling tractor! During testing he roached the clutch, pulled the engine and left it to sit in his garage for four years.

A month ago I began the tear down. I removed the transmission which I found to be quite an easy task and replaced all of the seals on it. While they are out I have also taken apart and re-greased the c/v joints. The engine was out in a couple of days and I am in the process of removing unneeded wiring, hoses, and little studs and tabs. It will be a mild shave and cleanup for paint before the engine goes in.

As it sits here is what I have left to complete.

Drop rear suspension and remove torque tube to be shortened 3/4"
Have BH adapter cut, drilled, and tapped.
Install TT, transmission, and adapter to get measurements for cross member modification.
Have cross member modified and steering shaft lengthened.
Have oil pan and pickup tube modified accordingly.
Figure out clutch disc situation.
Make engine mounts and install engine.
Install fuel cell and fuel system.
Fit new cooling system.

Something I am doing that I haven't seen yet is I am doing a cable-hydraulic clutch setup. I do not have nor can source a hydraulic setup locally for a decent price so I am improvising. My setup is, cable going straight out to a slight bend around the side of the strut tower where the cable bracket will be fixed, and in front of the tower on the frame rail I will have the hydraulic master cylinder mounted lower than the cable. A pivot will be in place above the master cylinder where a lever is mounted. The cable pulls on the top of the lever and the bottom of the lever engages the cylinder. It works in theory but if anyone has done this before and has feedback or advice I would greatly appreciate it!

It is late and I must be gone. I will post some eye candy in the coming days with descriptions. Thanks for reading!
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Rasta Monsta  



Joined: 12 Jul 2006
Posts: 11332
Location: PacNW

PostPosted: Wed May 03, 2017 1:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cool
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Member6000  



Joined: 14 Aug 2015
Posts: 3
Location: Hebron, Ohio

PostPosted: Thu Jun 22, 2017 12:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The torque tube has been shortened, the bell housing and tt is at the machine shop having an adapter plate made up. The carter fuel pump and fuel cell has arrived and while the adapter plate is being manufactured I am going to tackle the vehicles wiring.
I want to keep all of the basics such as headlights, turn signals and window and mirror controls. I want to get rid of all of the engine related wiring that I will not be using. The fuel pump, cooling fan, and ignition will be on switch controlled relay circuits.
Should I plan on cutting what I am removing at the fuse box or should I be able to remove pins from the box? Also if someone can provide some clarity as to what the pcm controls or guide me to a write up on the subject I would greatly appreciate it.

Thank you very much
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