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Pray for the '82 931...
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morghen  



Joined: 21 Jan 2005
Posts: 7607
Location: Romania

PostPosted: Sun Feb 26, 2017 2:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hold on, except the boost, there is no difference between the euro S1 and the US S1, is there?
Just turn up that boost to 0.7 man...you don't need to invest in anything else to have yourself a quick 924.
Just make sure you've got fuel to cover that boost and you're ready to go...no need for modern engine management witchcraft unless you want to get more than 200hp out of the S1.
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924RACR  



Joined: 29 Jul 2001
Posts: 8018
Location: Royal Oak, MI, USA

PostPosted: Sun Feb 26, 2017 3:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mine's an S2... and I'll leave it to Dan to answer the detailed tech questions like that! LOL

But yeah, at least I now have the right gauges to tell me if everything's happy... so game on!

Just need to wait for the snow to leave again, for good... and then find room for a few more hoses through the firewall!!
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'79 924 #77 ITB racecar
'82 931 Plat. Silver
#25 Hidari Firefly P2 sports prototype
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Rasta Monsta  



Joined: 12 Jul 2006
Posts: 11328
Location: PacNW

PostPosted: Sun Feb 26, 2017 4:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

morghen wrote:
Hold on, except the boost, there is no difference between the euro S1 and the US S1, is there.


Euro lacks the frequency valve, and therefore the WOT enrichment circuit, no?
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morghen  



Joined: 21 Jan 2005
Posts: 7607
Location: Romania

PostPosted: Sun Feb 26, 2017 5:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't know for sure but nothing stopping you from upping the boost while still staying safe if you use high octane fuel. Must not be race fuel but I've tested that on my GTS wannabe and it makes a difference even from high octane pump fuel.
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
Posts: 15426
Location: Woodstock IL

PostPosted: Sun Feb 26, 2017 1:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

DITC is different on Euro S2, so presumably a different ignition map.

Bumping a US S2 from 7psi to 10psi should be relatively safe as long as you're not stupid, and take care on the hottest summer days.
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15 981 GTS | 04 955 Turbo | 88 924S SE | 82 931 (x2) | 81 937 | 81 Euro 931 | 81 Weissach | 80 US 928 | 80 US 931 '941' | 80 US 931 | 80 931 GTR | 79 Sebring | 78 D-Prod (x2) | 78 Poli-Form | 78 Limited Edition | 77 Martini
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924RACR  



Joined: 29 Jul 2001
Posts: 8018
Location: Royal Oak, MI, USA

PostPosted: Thu Mar 30, 2017 9:57 pm    Post subject: March update Reply with quote

Time for a little update... drove 'er to work last three days, thanks to the salt finally clearing away. Lots of fun! Until I got stuck at the gas pump refueling on the way to work. Typical hot-start starter-based issue.

Will be redoing the wiring to the starter, plus the battery ground (replaced them some time ago, but will be doing a better job this time) and a new gear reduction starter from Ideola. Enough of this stupidity.

I also noticed that my clutch master cylinder is dripping at the boot, so will swap that out too before it becomes a problem.

Then maybe soon I can get to installing the boost controller and really having some fun! Mixture/AFR and general running have been going quite well... though she is consuming a fair bit of oil at the moment; will probably switch back from Mobil1 to dyno oil for the summer, beat on her hard, try and get those rings to seat in better...
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'79 924 #77 ITB racecar
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
Posts: 15426
Location: Woodstock IL

PostPosted: Fri Aug 04, 2017 12:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

924RACR wrote:
Rasta Monsta wrote:
924RACR wrote:
I had previously removed the electronic component. . .to clean off corrosion.


What did you find in there? Is this good maintenance? Are there alternative plug and play solutions for this part?


I seem to recall some corrosion (was at least at the beginning of this year, if not earlier).

No, apparently this was not good maintenance! Maybe if I'd used some proper conductive paste (like from Radio Shack or other electronics supply place).

I'm tempted to re-paste it and reinstall, see if the problem returns. Glad to hear that it's a common part...

According to the photo of the one I took off, I see part # 211 905 351, mfgr is Fairchild, and it's clearly marked VW/Audi.

Edit: exactly this part:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/151747513189?lpid=82&chn=ps&ul_noapp=true

$30 on eBay, apparently there are new ones too. Hell, that one above is around the corner from me! LOL

Yeah, Walmart sells a new one!
https://www.walmart.com/ip/NEW-IGNITION-CONTROL-MODULE-FITS-EUROPEAN-MODEL-1979-1989-VOLKSWAGEN-211-905-351A-B-D-0-227-100-116-0-227-100-118-0-227-100-137/113340650?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=1134&adid=22222222227050039562&wmlspartner=wmtlabs&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=145320267749&wl4=pla-261006180645&wl5=9016902&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=112343853&wl11=online&wl12=113340650&wl13=&veh=sem

One more, original part # (per the PET parts catalog) is 191 905 351 A... Google search shows it turning up as a VW Golf Mk1/Mk2 ignition control module...

PS - thanks to John Brown for providing the part!


A couple of additional part numbers for the ignition module that come up in a cross reference search:
211 905 351
0 227 100 137 (Bosch)
93 90 220 (Beru)

Audi - Volkswagen OE #: 211 905 351 D
Saab OE #: 9390220
Volvo OE #: 1389939

Alternate, update or replacement for Bosch #'s:
0227100142, 0227100139, 0227100113, 0227100116

Alternate, update or replacement for Audi - VW #'s:
191905351B, 211905351B, 211905351E

Alternate, update or replacement for Volvo #s:
285230

191 905 351B => this one includes the heat sink.
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