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87 924S Engine sputtering Fuel delivery Problem
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jason c  



Joined: 13 Jan 2014
Posts: 1018
Location: Nwi

PostPosted: Fri Jul 18, 2014 2:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

DLC360 wrote:
ThomasJoseph315 wrote:
EGR valve sticking?


Something else to check. THANKS


No, its not. You don't have one. Lol
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Rasta Monsta  



Joined: 12 Jul 2006
Posts: 11733
Location: PacNW

PostPosted: Fri Jul 18, 2014 3:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

har
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Toofah King Bad
  • WeiBe (1987 924S 2.5t) - 931 S3
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jason c  



Joined: 13 Jan 2014
Posts: 1018
Location: Nwi

PostPosted: Fri Jul 18, 2014 3:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rasta Monsta wrote:
har


Just trying to cheer you up. They say laughter is the best medicine.
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DLC360  



Joined: 18 Sep 2012
Posts: 76
Location: Parma Hts Ohio

PostPosted: Sat Jul 19, 2014 1:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

jason c wrote:
Rasta Monsta wrote:
har


Just trying to cheer you up. They say laughter is the best medicine.


LOL.... OK.. OK... OK.... Thanks, it lightens the mood...

I have done so much this season to get it running right that I would look for it all day. The thing is, im not mad / upset with the car, its just trying to make a part time driver into a reliable daily driver is driving me nuts.
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jason c  



Joined: 13 Jan 2014
Posts: 1018
Location: Nwi

PostPosted: Sat Jul 19, 2014 6:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

There are three systems that make your engine run. Mechanical, fuel and ignition. You have to evaluate each system one at a time and test by test, jumping around &,swapping parts just hoping it works will drive you crazy. You'll find "flow diagrams" in some service manuals. They help you do the proper tests in the proper order based on your symptoms, they should help you stay on track.
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DLC360  



Joined: 18 Sep 2012
Posts: 76
Location: Parma Hts Ohio

PostPosted: Sun Jul 20, 2014 2:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

jason c wrote:
There are three systems that make your engine run. Mechanical, fuel and ignition. You have to evaluate each system one at a time and test by test, jumping around &,swapping parts just hoping it works will drive you crazy. You'll find "flow diagrams" in some service manuals. They help you do the proper tests in the proper order based on your symptoms, they should help you stay on track.


I agree completely. That's why when it first started I went to the ignition system. I changed the plugs, wires, cap, rotor and coil. When it didn't change anything, I listened to the engine more and found it was loosing power and acting like it wasn't getting fuel, the tach doesn't even drop when this happens. From there I changed out the fuel filter, finding it to be the original and pouring out black fuel when I took it down. With that in mind I changed out the tank strainer and fuel pump. The fuel was clear from the tank, so I didn't see any need going past the strainer. With the black fuel in mind, that's when I had the injectors cleaned and new O rings installed. I also cleaned the AFM according to Clarks Garage write up. That's where im at now.
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jason c  



Joined: 13 Jan 2014
Posts: 1018
Location: Nwi

PostPosted: Sun Jul 20, 2014 4:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So moving forward, monitor the fuel pressure while driving and see if it drops during the sputtering. If you can, monitor the AFR as well.

BTW, when did this start, out of the blue or was the car sitting for a long time and your just getting it running again? A little more info may help.
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DLC360  



Joined: 18 Sep 2012
Posts: 76
Location: Parma Hts Ohio

PostPosted: Sun Jul 20, 2014 11:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

jason c wrote:
So moving forward, monitor the fuel pressure while driving and see if it drops during the sputtering. If you can, monitor the AFR as well.

BTW, when did this start, out of the blue or was the car sitting for a long time and your just getting it running again? A little more info may help.


This started one day on the way home from work, at night with lights on of course. When it happened I noticed my volts were low, and at idle or when the brake lights or turn signal was on, my alt light would start to come on. I thought it was related to a bad alternator, so I checked the alt, and of course again it was the original equipment. I installed a BOSCH alt and just drove around town for the next couple days. When I got back on the freeway, that's when I noticed the problem again and it got worse until I started changing out parts.
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jason c  



Joined: 13 Jan 2014
Posts: 1018
Location: Nwi

PostPosted: Sun Jul 20, 2014 1:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do you have a multimeter?
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DLC360  



Joined: 18 Sep 2012
Posts: 76
Location: Parma Hts Ohio

PostPosted: Tue Jul 22, 2014 12:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

jason c wrote:
Do you have a multimeter?


Yes, a digital one.
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jason c  



Joined: 13 Jan 2014
Posts: 1018
Location: Nwi

PostPosted: Tue Jul 22, 2014 12:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ideally you should use a labscope to do a sweep test of the AFM and TPS but you can try with your multimeter. Most multimeters arent fast enough to catch a glitch but you can try.
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