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nd4spd924S · Joined: 05 Nov 2002 Posts: 14 Location: chester springs pa

i have seen other porsches with these strut braces but are they really worth the money i mean 250 for a brace

81turbo · Joined: 03 Nov 2002 Posts: 1065 Location: Oakland, CA

I know nothing about your car, but before anyone spends $250 on a strut bar there are a number of other things to do first. Get rid of those 14" wheels and get five bolt brakes. The do springs, lowering, swaybars, GOOD shocks and struts, and finally get a GOOD set of tires. After all that the last thing on your mind will be a strut bar

Fast924Turbo · Joined: 02 Nov 2002 Posts: 122

I'd have to agree with 81Turbo, there are many other good ways to spend your money (in my order of preference):

simsport · Joined: 06 Nov 2002 Posts: 573 Location: UK Warrington

I agree the rest of the car needs to be set up to take advantage of a bar. However the geometry of a car driven hard on sticky tyres can change a fair bit if my covers are anything to go by. I fitted a 924s type made by sparco. The car handles well, better than before as a result.

Having said that my car is set up with hard suspension and veeery sticky rubber so it would benefit more than most.....anyway it looks cool!

Cheers
Simon

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dwak · Joined: 03 Nov 2002 Posts: 839 Location: Eastern Ontario

I've noticed two types of strut brace, strut to strut and strut-45 degrees back. comments? Also, if one had the gear, why not just fabricate one?

dwak

Paul · Posted: Fri Nov 08, 2002 12:27 pm Post subject:

I agree, when I'm ready for one I'll fire up my wire feed welder and make one.

jpab924 · Posted: Fri Nov 08, 2002 1:43 pm Post subject:

Just make sure you make it out of a low weight titanium alloy. Put me on the list.

Joes924Racer · Posted: Wed Dec 18, 2002 4:39 pm Post subject:

sure thats light enough.. I have a drawings by a
coconut cowboy and could make them here cheap enough
as firen up the wire feed welder I dont own ...I think straight
across is best.. hey we could take up a fund to have them made
cheap enough. not with titanium though.

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1979 porsche 924 Na
1980 porsche Turbo 931GT Replica
Have u ever driven a turbo.

Peter_in_AU · Joined: 29 Jul 2001 Posts: 2743 Location: Sydney, Australia

titanium? Not ricey enough unless you put a big "titanium" sign on it. Carbon fibre or even better yet a big slab of steel with a single layer of carbon fibre wrapped around it

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1979 924 (Gone to a better place)
1974 Lotus 7 S4 "Big Valve" Twin-cam (waiting)
1982 924 (As featured on Wikipedia)

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924RACR · Posted: Wed Dec 18, 2002 10:52 pm Post subject:

Yep, take a wood dowel as a core, aluminium plugs for the ends to thread the rod ends into, and wrap the core in carbon fiber.

I'm hoping to test one of them out next year. I would agree that, until you've got uprated springs, shocks, and either poly or spherical bushings up front, your money would be wasted. No point trying to tie together the top of the front end if you've still got a massive amount of play in the suspension itself. They're meant to eliminate flex in the body, but the body won't flex very much if the suspension is still moving around. Everything in its turn.
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Webmeister
'79 924 #77 SCCA H Prod racecar
'82 931 Plat. Silver
#25 Hidari Firefly P2 sports prototype

John Brown · Joined: 07 Nov 2002 Posts: 903 Location: Leesburg VA

I'll go even farther, as is my usual dispostion, and say that, unless you are running with modifications AND on a track, the strut is a waste.

Lizard · Posted: Thu Dec 19, 2002 4:24 am Post subject:

I agree you need alot of other suspension mods to make it work but I will disagree with having to be on a track, it can help on the street if you drive your car hard, i do have to say yes you would notice more of a different on the track though
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Joes924Racer · Posted: Thu Dec 19, 2002 4:39 am Post subject:

ha 250 a brace thats way out there. make your own for a hundred
it would be slightly trick.
_________________
1979 porsche 924 Na
1980 porsche Turbo 931GT Replica
Have u ever driven a turbo.

924RACR · Posted: Thu Dec 19, 2002 4:59 am Post subject:

I agree, $250 is way too much for something you can make yourselves! That's why I don't have one yet, it's relatively unimportant (even for me, racing-only use on a track) and I'd planned to build my own.

Only one problem - 944Racing.com is now selling them retail for $125. At that price I will buy to save myself the hassle. However no reason to not make your own, if you are handy and have the equipment. BTW, the rod-ends can be bought from any standard racer's place like RacerPartsWholesale.com - they're like $5-10/each, maybe less. The only PITA thing is in order to have the thing adjust by turning the rod, you have to have one left-hand and one right-hand thread rod end. They're readily available, but it'll also mean you'll need to buy a left-hand tap to thread the hole.

Just a coupla thoughts. I do agree with JB, only worth it on a modded car on track... and I'll go you one better - on race tires! Street tires are not usually sticky enough to matter.
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Vaughan Scott
Webmeister
'79 924 #77 SCCA H Prod racecar
'82 931 Plat. Silver
#25 Hidari Firefly P2 sports prototype

marky522 · Joined: 02 Nov 2002 Posts: 335 Location: Port Huron, MI

There is a guy on rennlist that is making them for i believe $100 shipped, and the guys on the board have said even on a street driven car it HAS improved the feel.

Mark