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Suspension Upgrades for Ideola's Ultra Wide Body 931
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
Posts: 15548
Location: Spring Lake MI

PostPosted: Sun Mar 29, 2009 6:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Joes924Racer wrote:
One word ...what the yeck is a BORBET. Yea those will work,
neat.

I dunno, but they were made in Germany, and came off of a 930 Keepin' it in the family, and period appropriate too!
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Shurick  



Joined: 15 May 2005
Posts: 524
Location: Russia, Moscow.

PostPosted: Sun Mar 29, 2009 8:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Borbet are the the "fashion" rim manufacturer, their wheels are "more to look than to be". All their rims which I had in my hands where scaring heavy weighted.
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'79 931 -- intercooled K26-3060-6.10 turbo @ 1.2 bar, EFI+EDIS, 951S brakes, stripped interior, 951 look.
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
Posts: 15548
Location: Spring Lake MI

PostPosted: Thu Apr 09, 2009 11:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Finally! Got my suspension bushings from Paragon today. This is the Weltmeister / Racer's Edge package for late 944 suspension:


This is everything required for the "rolling suspension". The sway bar bushings will come later, because they're not required at the moment to get the chassis rolling again. I also have the geometry correcting ball joint kit, but still trying to figure out what to do about the tie rod ends. I'll tackle that as soon as I get back from the my Travels Through Texas.
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Last edited by ideola on Sat Jul 18, 2009 2:48 am; edited 1 time in total
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
Posts: 15548
Location: Spring Lake MI

PostPosted: Sat May 09, 2009 2:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've committed to trying the POR15 route for my chassis prep. Powder coating was just too expensive for what I wanted to achieve, and I've heard nothing but praise for the POR15 line. Here's what coming:
  • Marine Clean, primarily for the torque tube, but also for any other ferrous-based parts that can't be media blasted

  • Metal Ready, primarily for the torque tube, but also for any other ferrous-based parts that can't be media blasted

  • Self Etching Primer, to be used on non-ferrous parts
  • Rust Preventative Paint, to be used on the ferrous components like the dust shields, hubs, spindles, and spring plates

  • Hard Nose Paint (two-part topcoat), in bright yellow and light grey, to be used on major components such as the a-arms, trailing arms, torsion carrier mounts, torque tube, etc.


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RC  



Joined: 25 Mar 2007
Posts: 2636
Location: Australia

PostPosted: Sat May 09, 2009 4:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ideola wrote:
Finally! Got my suspension bushings from Paragon today. This is the Weltmeister / Racer's Edge package for late 944 suspension:


This is everything required for the "rolling suspension". The sway bar bushings will come later, because they're not required at the moment to get the chassis rolling again. I also have the geometry correcting ball joint kit, but still trying to figure out what to do about the tie rod ends. I'll tackle that as soon as I get back from the my Travels Through Texas.


Which ones are for the rear arm inners? White ones? How hard are they?
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
Posts: 15548
Location: Spring Lake MI

PostPosted: Sat May 09, 2009 7:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, the white ones are for the trailing arms. I'm not at home presently, so I'll have to get back to you on the material.
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Rasta Monsta  



Joined: 12 Jul 2006
Posts: 11723
Location: PacNW

PostPosted: Sat May 09, 2009 7:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

RC wrote:
White ones? How hard are they?


Pretty hard, but not as hard as the black ones.
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Chrenan  



Joined: 15 Jan 2003
Posts: 3903
Location: Canada

PostPosted: Sat May 09, 2009 7:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rasta Monsta wrote:
RC wrote:
White ones? How hard are they?


Pretty hard, but not as hard as the black ones.


Not exactly true. The white ones are growers, not showers, and likely the hardness is similar.
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
Posts: 15548
Location: Spring Lake MI

PostPosted: Sat May 09, 2009 12:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You guys are terrible!
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DOCO  



Joined: 04 Aug 2006
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PostPosted: Mon May 11, 2009 1:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ROTFLMAO!!!! theres a comic everywhere!!!
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
Posts: 15548
Location: Spring Lake MI

PostPosted: Wed May 13, 2009 3:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here's the geometry correcting ball joint kit:


Now, I learned something very useful in the last 24 hours. The late offset alu A-arms are not all rebuildable

The pair I got were removed by a reputable source from the same 1987 944S, but the RHS arm is a non-rebuildable version. The rebuildable arm (LHS) is part number 951.341.149.10; the non-rebuildable arm (RHS) is part number 944.341.150.02. Oddly neither of these part numbers show up in the parts catalog or on Pelican's search engine.

I'm not sure if the 944 vs. 951 part number is an indicator, but the dead giveaway as far as I can tell is that the cup that the ball joint sits in has a different casting between the two versions. In the following closeup, you can see the rebuildable arm on the left, and the non-rebuildable one on the right. You can also see in the profile shot how the one on the right has a different casting. Note also the removable circlip on the LHS arm. I believe one of the other ways to tell them apart is by the type of moisture barrier used (which I've already removed on both arms), but I'm not positive that this is conclusive. The rebuildable one had a dark amber type material that I had to heat up to remove. The non-rebuildable one had a light grey rubbery material that was easy to scrape away with a razor knife.


I'm in the process of tracking down a replacement for the RHS arm. When I get time, I'll update the appropriate suspension-related threads with this new, crucial bit of info.
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Last edited by ideola on Sat Jul 18, 2009 2:50 am; edited 1 time in total
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
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Location: Spring Lake MI

PostPosted: Wed May 27, 2009 4:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Elephant Racing adjustable bump-steer tie rod kits:

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Last edited by ideola on Sat Jul 18, 2009 2:50 am; edited 1 time in total
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
Posts: 15548
Location: Spring Lake MI

PostPosted: Wed Jun 03, 2009 12:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hmmmm...nice little package waiting on the porch when I got home tonight...


Tilton 600 series 3-pedal assembly



On top, we have a 15/16" master cylinder to be used for the clutch master; following we have 3/4", 7/10" and 5/8" cylinders, which will allow me to play around with the pairing and balance for the dual cylinder setup for the brakes.


And if that's not enough to get things adjusted to our liking, we'll use the remote mount bias adjuster:


Add a remote mount three-chamber reservoir setup for standard -AN4 fittings:


And finally, the throttle cable adjustable linkage:


More parts to add to the growing pile awaiting assembly...should be a fun summer up here in Michigan

Also, I dropped off a buttload of ferrous parts at the platers to be Cad-Di-Chromated, importantly including all of the hardware required to reassemble the suspension, as well as the spindles, spring plates, and hubs. So, while I'm waiting for that stuff to get plated, I need to get busy learning how to paint with POR15.
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Last edited by ideola on Sat Jul 18, 2009 2:53 am; edited 1 time in total
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Raceboy  



Joined: 01 Mar 2004
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 03, 2009 5:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very, very nice! If it's not a secret, how much did this Tilton pedal assembly set you back?
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ideola  



Joined: 01 Oct 2004
Posts: 15548
Location: Spring Lake MI

PostPosted: Wed Jun 03, 2009 8:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Raceboy wrote:
Very, very nice! If it's not a secret, how much did this Tilton pedal assembly set you back?

Just over $1300.

bass gt is running one of these, and I selected the brake master cylinder sizes based on his feedback. The Tilton rep said to use 3/4" and 13/16" cylinders for the brake config. Steve is using two 3/4" cylinders and recommended going a size or two smaller because he felt that his setup was a bit too "wooden", and thought the smaller cylinders would help. Ultimately, it is all a matter of personal taste and driving style. Since the cylinders retail for only ~$100, I decided to get the range that I did in order to have some flexibility in sizing. Remember, this is a completely boosterless setup!

Also, I decided to pay a little more and get the cylinders and reservoir with -AN fittings instead of the OEM-style crimp-on fittings. It will cost a bit more to get all the stainless hose and fittings, but in the end, I think it will be better.

I had also debated long and hard on whether or not to get the accelerator. You can get the two-pedal assembly for less than half the cost of the three-pedal setup. However, because of the way these mount to the floor, and also because of the way the 924 floor slants up immediately behind the mount point of the stock accelerator pedal, I didn't want my accelerator and brake-clutch pedals to be that mis-aligned. I finally decided to "bite the bullet", paid the extra to get the three pedal setup. By the time you add in the extra for that, the throttle linkage assembly, the extra master cylinder, and the extra expense for -AN fittings, it ended up costing between $500-$600 more than the bare-bones basic two-pedal configuration. So you could get a two-pedal brake-clutch only in the $700-$800 range.

A footnote to the whole thing, EBS usually doesn't stock Tilton products but they can get them. I did some comparison price shopping between three major Tilton resellers, and EBS matched the pricing, so I was happy to give them the business.
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Last edited by ideola on Wed Jun 10, 2009 12:41 am; edited 1 time in total
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