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Spark issue

 
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blargonator  



Joined: 22 Sep 2004
Posts: 100
Location: kalamazoo MI

PostPosted: Sun Oct 07, 2007 1:27 pm    Post subject: Spark issue Reply with quote

ok, after going on a 924 hiatus and one RX7 plan crushed, the guys at the shop talked me into bringing up the 77 (10/76), but anywho, i'm not getting spark at cylinder #2 and #3.

ok, i'll go through and list what we know is not a issue.

put a new dist. cap on there, the old one had gouges in it, but the rotor looked fine. no issues of interference with the new cap.

swapped plug wires around and checked for spark after that to see if they were doing anything. nothing.

spark plugs, fouled out on 2 and 3, swapped 1 and 2 just to check, but nothing. still just 1 and 4 firing.

cut and soldered another piece of wire onto the plug that goes into the distributor, from the ignition control module (right name? little box on the driver side fender.

anyway, thanks for your time guys.
any ideas?

edit~ i'm looking at a Crane Cams Ignition kit for it, there was a little nick in the reluctor. worth it? or just a headache replacing a system that should work somewhat easily?
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Smoothie  



Joined: 01 Jan 2003
Posts: 8032
Location: DE (the one near MD, PA, NJ)

PostPosted: Sun Oct 07, 2007 2:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If the wires are good, I think you have a good clue there with the 2-3 fouling. Too much fuel or oil fouling the plugs will inhibit spark. Test for spark by pulling the wires from the spark plug end, put the end of a screwdriver into the wire end and let the spark jump from the screwdriver shaft to a ground point somewhere on the engine.
Testing with a timing light or at the dist cap end of the wires will show no spark if the problem is fuel/oil plug fouling.
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"..it's made in Germany. You know the Germans always make good stuff."


'82 924T, US version, dark green metallic, 5 speed Audi 016G gearbox
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blargonator  



Joined: 22 Sep 2004
Posts: 100
Location: kalamazoo MI

PostPosted: Sun Oct 07, 2007 3:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

hmm....we tested with a timing light for the majority of the time, we pulled a plug and just swapped it around the dist. to check, i was in the car cranking it during this testing, i'll check myself next time i'm up at the shop, i'll also get some new plugs to throw in there while i'm at it.
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blargonator  



Joined: 22 Sep 2004
Posts: 100
Location: kalamazoo MI

PostPosted: Wed Oct 17, 2007 11:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

yeah, each cylinder is getting about 27k-29k volts.

i was going to swap injectors for some new ones, and i pulled out #1's and i looked at the banjo bolt for a second and questioned why it was all "spiraly", confused by this engineering madness i look closer and find the previous owner torqued it down a bit much, it bit the bullet.

anybody know where i can get another banjo bolt for my injector?
there seem to be 2 that have been replaced with some other banjo bolts too.

the two cylinders that were firing had a 12MM head, and the interior of the bolt was .050, and the others two were 13MM, and the interior of the bolt was .060. i know i'm probably grasping for straws, but its a start

so far it sounds like a dealer item only, i'm running to a v-dub stealership tomorrow.
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mgatlag  



Joined: 02 Aug 2007
Posts: 647
Location: Avon, IN

PostPosted: Thu Oct 18, 2007 3:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had the exact thing happen to me. I got new bolts from Auto Atlanta. I think they were around $8 each. Good luck.
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Michael
'77 1/2 924 N/A- 5 speed Audi box
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dgKnecht  



Joined: 17 Nov 2002
Posts: 42
Location: Palatka, FL

PostPosted: Thu Oct 18, 2007 4:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:

the two cylinders that were firing had a 12MM head, and the interior of the bolt was .050, and the others two were 13MM


mine were like that too, i think maybe the banjo bolts that go in the
injector are one size and the banjo bolts that attach the other end to the
fuel dizzy are the other size. i bet if you look at your fuel dizzy you'll find
a couple different sizes there too. i think the thread and length are the
same tho.
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--all of us have been through some bad times.....i once had a job where i had to drive a Chevette
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blargonator  



Joined: 22 Sep 2004
Posts: 100
Location: kalamazoo MI

PostPosted: Sun Dec 02, 2007 3:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

well, its getting a bit colder, and i'm spending less and less time working on my car and more time working on 3 race cars
but anyway, i'm getting spark at 2,3, and 4, but #1 is getting fouled out like no other.


also this is a stupid question, but i'm stumped. what should the initial timing be set to on the car? the only thing i could find is 10ATDC, is that after top dead center or am i just a complete moron?
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Nobbi  



Joined: 24 Aug 2006
Posts: 1396
Location: Germany

PostPosted: Tue Dec 04, 2007 1:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

10 TDC is allright if you pull the hose from the vacuum advance at the ignition- distributor.(If you have a good old mechanical-contact installed and its new), when older take 13mm wrench,start car, turn distributor slowly and find a good running engine while using your ears.... .....
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Smoothie  



Joined: 01 Jan 2003
Posts: 8032
Location: DE (the one near MD, PA, NJ)

PostPosted: Tue Dec 04, 2007 3:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

10 BTDC with hose disconnected is correct for '76-'80 Euro 924NAs.
For '76-'77.5 US, it's 10 ATDC with the vacuum hose/s installed. -But he knows that already since it's right in the Haynes.

Yes, "ATDC" is after..
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"..it's made in Germany. You know the Germans always make good stuff."


'82 924T, US version, dark green metallic, 5 speed Audi 016G gearbox
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Nobbi  



Joined: 24 Aug 2006
Posts: 1396
Location: Germany

PostPosted: Tue Dec 04, 2007 5:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks smoothie,
i dont own a haynes manual, and, sometimes i forgett you guys over the pond`s........
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