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Tip For Those With RaceWare Head Studs
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-nick  



Joined: 16 Nov 2002
Posts: 2699
Location: Cambridge, MA

PostPosted: Wed Oct 12, 2005 7:52 am    Post subject: Tip For Those With RaceWare Head Studs Reply with quote

Studs are great, unfortunately though you can only pull the head on/off with the engine out of the car if you use them with our 2.0L's due to the angle the engine sits. That is, unless you first pull the studs out, then pull the head off. Or put the head on, then screw the studs in. Either one is tricky as there isn't much room to grab hold of the studs or double-nutting and you can risk damaging threads. I would be willing to bet that this is the reason we didn't get studs from the factory.

I came up with a simple trick- when installing the head with the engine in the car, sit the head on with all the studs out, brush a little threadlocker on the very top of the stud threads and twist the nuts on a couple turns. When the thread locker dries you can spin the studs in easily using the nut. Once the studs are screwed all the way in you just keep tightening the nut and it breaks free of the threadlocker reasonably easily and you can torque the nuts down.

I haven't tried pulling the head, but I think that if you brush the threads that stick above the nuts with threadlocker and loosen the nuts onto it and wait til it dries- the studs *should* pull back out without much trouble. Might take some patience to pull them out this way, but it's better than ruining those $15+/ea. studs!

PS- I think using the stock head locating circlips is probably vital to making this method work. They keep the head centered so the studs aren't pinched by a slightly off-center head.

If only RaceWare would carve a female hex-key slot in the top of the studs we could avoid this whole mess...

nick
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81turbo  



Joined: 03 Nov 2002
Posts: 1065
Location: Oakland, CA

PostPosted: Wed Oct 12, 2005 9:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

When I did mine I used a Cap nut in combination with a regular nut to turn the stud into a bolt. It worked pretty well.
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Smoothie  



Joined: 01 Jan 2003
Posts: 8032
Location: DE (the one near MD, PA, NJ)

PostPosted: Wed Oct 12, 2005 9:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I used a cap nut for installation too. -Also noticed that they'd be easier to put in than to take out, especially the last two at the firewall due to clearance. -So I used a Dremel tool to cut a straight slot in the top of those two so they could be turned with a flat blade srewdriver.
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'82 924T, US version, dark green metallic, 5 speed Audi 016G gearbox
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tomcooper  



Joined: 17 Feb 2004
Posts: 301
Location: Waterloo, Nebraska

PostPosted: Fri Oct 14, 2005 4:39 am    Post subject: Tip for those with Raceware Studs Reply with quote

Okay, I have been putting this off long enough, but where is the best place to buy Raceware studs? I was about to try EBS, but if anyone has any better suggestions let me know.

Thanks,

Tom Cooper
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81turbo  



Joined: 03 Nov 2002
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Location: Oakland, CA

PostPosted: Fri Oct 14, 2005 5:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I got mine from the source.
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tomcooper  



Joined: 17 Feb 2004
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Location: Waterloo, Nebraska

PostPosted: Fri Oct 14, 2005 5:36 am    Post subject: Tip for those with Raceware Studs Reply with quote

How do you get to "the source"

Tom
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Smoothie  



Joined: 01 Jan 2003
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Location: DE (the one near MD, PA, NJ)

PostPosted: Fri Oct 14, 2005 5:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Same here, from Race-Tech Engineering in Taylor, Michigan in June'94.
http://www.raceware-fasteners.com/prod01.htm

You might find them selling for less through another retailer though, since direct sales from manufacturers tend to be at msrp.
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-nick  



Joined: 16 Nov 2002
Posts: 2699
Location: Cambridge, MA

PostPosted: Fri Oct 14, 2005 8:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Boy, and I thought I was on to something

I bought my set from paragon products. Pelican also carries them. I think they are the same as ordering through RaceWare ~$180 if I recall.

nick
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Paul  



Joined: 02 Nov 2002
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 14, 2005 9:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I got mine from EBS and they deserve our business, they really are great guys. I'll bet they will match any price you can find elsewhere.
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tomcooper  



Joined: 17 Feb 2004
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Location: Waterloo, Nebraska

PostPosted: Fri Oct 14, 2005 11:06 am    Post subject: Tip for those with Raceware Studs Reply with quote

Just went to EBS's web site and asked for a quote. I'll see what tomorrow brings and give them a call if I haven't heard anything by about 3:00 P.M. local time, 1:00 their time.

Tom

Opps, just got an automatic reply. Probably should have waited until the morning and called.
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Paul  



Joined: 02 Nov 2002
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 14, 2005 12:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Always call them, their site is lacking....
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Silver 98 986 3.6l 320 HP "Frank N Stein"
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endwrench  



Joined: 07 Dec 2002
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Location: Victor, Montana

PostPosted: Fri Oct 14, 2005 12:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

One other tip, be sure and actually READ the instructions unlike yours truly ! You don't torque them to stock specs. They actually torque to a lower spec due to the fine thread pitch used. If you use the stock bolt torque spec you WILL stretch them!! I know.

Todd
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Paul  



Joined: 02 Nov 2002
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Location: Southeast Wisconsin

PostPosted: Fri Oct 14, 2005 1:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

And there are different (lower) torque settings if you are using Mobil 1.
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Rasta Monsta  



Joined: 12 Jul 2006
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 11, 2008 3:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Could a machinist add a female hex to these? Could Raceware?
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bass gt  



Joined: 02 Dec 2004
Posts: 971
Location: Johannesburg for now!!

PostPosted: Wed Jun 11, 2008 5:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rasta Monsta wrote:
Could a machinist add a female hex to these? Could Raceware?


The Cosworth studs i use have a 4mm hex machined into the top. Makes fitting a snap.
Also, a little tip worth trying. Wind 1 stud into the block, either top front or rear. Then with the head at 30degrees to the block, slide the head down the stud. Rotate the head until it is lined up and gently seat onto the gasket holding collars. Once set, wind in one more stud and you're set. But of course, having a hex in the stud head makes this MUCH easier.

Steve
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