924Board.org

[WhoDak]

I've already got the front and rear suspension and brake assemblys. They were pulled from a 924S. The car was an automatic, so the guy sold the CV's with transmission. Would a complete CV assembly from an early '85 944 fit this setup? I'm trying to track down the remaining things I need so I can get started. Thanks for any help.
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Mike
'82 924 N/A
'91 Toyota Pickup SR5 4x4 Xtra cab

[-nick]

You'll need the CV's from 86+ 944 or any 924S.

Did you get the whole torsion tube assembly (rear control arms attached) as the "rear suspension"? Will be quite a nice upgrade if so. If not, you're going to need a few more parts...

nick

[WhoDak]

Yep, it's the whole tube assembly with the control arms still on. Nothings been opened up on the rear, just the axles are missing. Since axles from an early 944 wouldn't work, I'm assuming that the one's from my '82 can't be used ?
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Mike
'82 924 N/A
'91 Toyota Pickup SR5 4x4 Xtra cab

[gohim]

The axles that you need must come from a 944 or a 924S with a manual transmission, and alloy rear trailing arms (if you have a manual four speed or five speed transmission).

The alloy trailing arms have a wider rear track width built in, which is why the cars with alloy rear trailing arms do not use the spacers that the early cars 924 with five bolt, and 944 use. So longer cv axles are used with the alloy trailing arms.

85 cars are unique in that they are a change over year. The 85/2 cars have alloy front and rear trailing arms. The 85/1 cars have steel arms on one end. Right now I can't remember which end was alloy. So, you need to check the rear trailing arms on the car, if the car has a manual transmission, and alloy arms, you can use the cv axles with the 924S suspension.

As you probably know, the automatic transmission takes two different length cv axles, from those used on a manual transmission car (both axles same length on a car with manual transmission).

[WhoDak]

Well I have a few things I'm looking into, one guy's got the axles from a late 944 or 924S manual, but without good CV joints. Can the 82's joints be swapped onto the 944 or 924S axles, or is it not worth it to change them?
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Mike
'82 924 N/A
'91 Toyota Pickup SR5 4x4 Xtra cab

[Smoothie]

Yes, the cv joints are the same and can be swapped.
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"..it's made in Germany. You know the Germans always make good stuff."


'82 924T, US version, dark green metallic, 5 speed Audi 016G gearbox

[WhoDak]

Sounds good. Thanks for the help clearing some things up.
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Mike
'82 924 N/A
'91 Toyota Pickup SR5 4x4 Xtra cab

[Smoothie]

Also - there's a simple trick you can do to extend the life of the cv joints... That is to flip 'em. 99.99% of the wear in the cv's occurs in one direction inside the cv, so by flipping them, you change the thrust direction and this makes the large ball bearings ride on previously unworn surfaces. If you were not changing half-shafts, you'd just remove the shaft say from the left side, flip it so the cv that was at the transmission is now at the wheel and reinstall it on the same (left) side. It's complicated a bit by what you're doing because you have to keep track of where the cv's were originally - just mark the half-shafts before removing them from the '82 with left or right and the end of each with inboard or outboard. Then mark the replacement halfshafts, move the cv's over to the new shafts, then flip them on re-install on the car.
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"..it's made in Germany. You know the Germans always make good stuff."


'82 924T, US version, dark green metallic, 5 speed Audi 016G gearbox

[gohim]

Keep in mind that cv joints will cost almost $100 each, and complete properly rebuilt cv axles (with new cv joints) often sell for $250 or more.

Make sure that you are not paying too much for used axles that you are going to have to replace the cv joints on.

Cv joints seldom on 924 and 944 cars seldom go bad, unless they are abused (cracked boots, and missed services). I have gotten over 300K miles on a set without wearing them out (still nice and tight, without play whe I sold the car). You just have to watch the boots, and replace them when they go bad (before the joints are comtaminated or run out of grease), and only use the best quality grease when servicing cv joints.

[WhoDak]

Thanks for that tip, I had read a little on how you should flip them side to side so I'll definatly do that. And I'm sure I'll repack them and check them out nice and neat before they go back on. I know the boots are in good condition on my 82's and they don't creak or click or anything like that. Plus you don't need to drop the whole suspension to check CV joints heh.
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Mike
'82 924 N/A
'91 Toyota Pickup SR5 4x4 Xtra cab

[Smoothie]

You probably realize this, but I'm throwing out there anyway -
You can either flip them or swap them, but don't flip -and- swap them. In other words keep each half-shaft on the same side it was removed from and just flip it. -Or take the left and swap it to the right side and swap right to left without flipping them. If you both flip and swap then you'll be right back where you started and the thrust direction on the cv's will not have changed.
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"..it's made in Germany. You know the Germans always make good stuff."


'82 924T, US version, dark green metallic, 5 speed Audi 016G gearbox

[WhoDak]

Yeah I already realized it but extra clarity never hurts. One more question, if I'm swapping the suspensions I'll do it at my grandpa's garage since he's got all the tools and years of mechanical experience to help out. I'd like to get everything bolted up in a half day or one day so it can be on wheels and roll out of his garage at night. Then the next half day or day hook all the lines and run new fluids. Is that a feasable plan?
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Mike
'82 924 N/A
'91 Toyota Pickup SR5 4x4 Xtra cab

[John Brown]

Yes
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John
80 931 - #931 44Cup
99 Escalade - tows track cars
gone but not forgotten: original 924.org car - 82

[gohim]

If you are going to replace the torsion bar carrier, I don't think a 1/2 day is a realistic goal, especially if the torsion bars have been disturbed, because you need to remove the drive tube and transmission to remove and replace the torsion bar carrier, and if you are setting the ride height, you are going to have to remove and replace the torsion bar carrier several times to get the ride height set correctly.

I recommend that you inspect the four brake calipers (replacing the seals kits), inspect front the wheel bearings and replace the front wheel bearing grease seals ahead of time. You should also buy replacement grease seals and o-rings for the rear axle bearing caps. Don't waste your time trying to salvage the rear cv boots. Old ones may look good, but tear very easily. New ones cost less than $5 each from "www.stopshopanddrive.com", and shipping is fast (and free on orders over $50).

If you are just replacing/converting the brakes, you could do it in a 1/2 day if you do all of the prep work in advance. BUT, if you are swapping out the torsion bar carrier, or even the trailing arms, you are looking at more like a long weekend to do the job right and get the ride height adjusted properly.

[WhoDak]

You have to drop the tranny to change out the torsion bar carrier ? I don't see any mention of it in the Haynes. The only thing I see needed to come out is the exhaust, then everything can come straight down.

Maybe I'm just not understanding this right, but if I'm putting in the complete, and never disassembled torsion bar assembly in I shouldn't need to reset the ride height since the spring plates and torsion bars weren't loosened and moved? Just remove the brake components, axles, unbolt the carrier assembly and trailing arms from the body and drop the whole thing, then raise the new carrier assembly, bolt it on, axles, brake components and then replumb.
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Mike
'82 924 N/A
'91 Toyota Pickup SR5 4x4 Xtra cab